Religious sites in Egypt/Jordan/Israel

I intend to keep this up to date; giving clear GPS fixes of the most important religious sites in Egypt.

Mount Sinai
Where Moses received the ten Commandments.

Located: 28.539 33.975

Monastery of St. Anthony
The oldest surviving monastery.

Located: 28.936 32.352

Towns of Sodom & Gomorrah
God's destruction upon early buggers.

View Larger Map

Dead Sea Scrolls
Testament by the Essenes to the Second Coming of Christ. 

Located: 31.77369 35.2039

Church of the Nativity
Site of the Birth of Christ

Located: 31.70431 35.20736

Church of the Holy Sepulcher
Site of the death of Christ

Located: 31.77802 35.22980

Church of the Nativity - Bethlehem

KML 31.70431 35.20736

Or Bet Lehem if you are catching a bus.

This is one of the most sacred cites for X-tians as it represents the spot where Jesus was brought into this world through the virgin Mary.

I travelled up here by taxi which cost 60Nsi.

There are no buses all the way and the taxi driver tells me it's violent compared with Jerusalem a 10 minute journey away.

History

Again, like the Church of the Sepulcher, this was built in the rule of Constantine.

The site demarks some caves on which the initial basilica was built and further expanded and embellished at the time of the crusades.

Again, like the Sepulcher, it is divided up and in generally poor condition.

Doesn't stop the tourists.

Downstairs you have a star demarking the actual site of Christ's birth, then you have a marble shelf right representing the manger where the child was situated.

It's all very interesting and touching, and after a while of reflection, I make my way upstairs.

The church is situated in the West Bank and is Palestinian.

You will need a passport if you want to travel here.

Jerusalem - Old City

So much to see within the City Walls, it's an experience in itself.

Old City is built in a valley, made up of a series of walkways, divided to 4 quarters reflecting the religious persuasion of that sections inhabitants.

I've devoted my attention to visiting the three most important sites in Jerusalem Old City:-

• Jews - The Wailing Wall [Part of the Holy Temple of David site of the Holy Holies]
• Christians - The Church of the Sepulcher [Built on the site of the Crucifixion]
• Muslims - The Dome of the Rock

Jews - The Wailing Wall or Western Wall

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Originally making up part of Temple one for David, this Western wall is all that remains of the structure after being sacked by Titus Caesar of the Roman Empire, leaving a small part of the temple wall to give camp to his troops.

It is said that God offered his protection to the Temple in Midrash saying it would never be destroyed for when water ran from between it's cracks, it symbolised the coming of the Messiah.

Jews approach the wall whilst bowing and kissing, some place hand written notes in the cracks. When they are finished bowing, kissing and praying they must back away still facing the structure.

This is tradition.

Western Wall - Wailing Wall

Christians - The Church of the Sepulcher

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Built on Golgotha site of the Crucifixion of Jesus Christ around 333 by Emperor Constantine and the Bishop Saint Macarius. The church was fully destroyed in 1009 Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah and Control of Jerusalem, and thereby the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, continued to change hands several times between the Fatimids and the Seljuk Turks (loyal to the Abbasid caliph in Baghdad) until the arrival of the Crusaders in 1099.

The church fell back under Muslim control after Saladin who assigned responsibility for it to two neighbouring Muslim families. The Joudeh were entrusted with the key, and the Nusseibeh, who had been the custodians of the church since the days of Caliph Omar in 637, retained the position of keeping the door. This arrangement has persisted into modern times. Twice each day, a Joudeh family member brings the key to the door, which is locked and unlocked by a Nusseibeh.

Status Quo

In 1555 the Franciscan monks completed a transformation and a power struggle broke out within the various Christian factions for overall control of the site.
Eastern Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Roman Catholic, Coptic Orthodox, the Ethiopian Orthodox and the Syriac Orthodox all jockeyed for power and rights, resulted in common area's becoming a 'no mans land' where Status Quo reigned, no work is undertaken, and conflict, often violent, is regular.

Divided into different sections, you may want to take a guide, although the church still has impact without it and is graced with many thousands of visitors every day.

Church of the Holy Sepulcher

Inscription in the Triportico

The Edicule of the Holy Sepulcher

Pulpits - Rock of the Calvary

Golgotha - The Rock of Calvary - Site of the Death of Jesus  

Muslims - Dome of the Rock

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This Golden Dome is only accessible by Muslims. Heavily guarded, you will find most of the hostility surrounds this structure and it's construction on one of the most holy sites of the Jews.

It is the oldest extant Islamic building in the world built in 691 on the spot where Mohammed is said to have ascended to heaven.

The dome is said to have been inspired by the other basilicas around the city, and initially built using 20,000 gold pieces "whose shine could not be witnessed by the bare eye".

Non-Muslims are not allowed into this section.

Dome of the Rock

These are the main sites, though there are many, many more.

You should spend a few days trying to discover them all.

Israel Museum

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Located in West Jerusalem in amongst the government buildings, rose gardens and bird watching sanctuaries, the museum of Israel has a small number of exhibits of particular interest.

Airy breaking up

You could be forgiven for thinking you were in an ornamental gardens for there seems to be a certain pride here for all things green. but the gardens are light and airy breaking up the different sections of the museum.

The 'all in good time exhibition' - Art

An art exhibition drawn from private collections and national galleries documenting the 'all in good time' .
There are a number of works of art which have looked at different aspects of Israeli life, some videos which you can sit and watch on your own in quite auditoriums, large two story sculpture of Ethiopian Jews to the backdrop of various smaller works on canvas through different mediums and different countries.

Perhaps by selecting the best of Jewish art, a lot of the stuff is ethnic, culturally original and diverse making it easy to wander round without hurrying from piece to piece, perhaps why they called it the 'all in good time exhibition'.

Live Model of Jerusalem

Model of Jerusalem

A to scale model of the old city of Jerusalem with the important landmarks belie the cities ethnic divisions, Golgoroth the site of Jesus's execution and other bits and pieces like the Temple and battlements various pools, theatres, houses, stately buildings. Mostly Hellenistic built around the time of Herod.

For this part, you can get an audio guide. Handheld, this can give you some handy information backed up with a map free of charge.

The Dead Sea Scrolls

Probably one of the most important discoveries of the century, parts of dead sea scrolls were available in markets across Asia minor from the periods of the first crusades and before. The old testament is based on them.

The major period of interest was sparked in the discovery of a number of text attributed to the Essenes, documenting the Messianic prophecies of Isaiah, in a cave in 1947, said to be part of true and original scripts of which there were 1,000.

These are the only publicly available exhibits in existence.

The Isaiah Script and the Temple Scroll that lie here in the museum basically talk about:

• The Children of the Light
• The Children of the Dark
• The Son of Truth or Righteousness
• The Wicked Priest
• The Man of Lies

These are excerpts from the original scripts of Isaiah -

"And, on the whole, from among those who profess to be Christians will rise up then false prophets, false apostles, impostors, mischief-makers, evil-doers, liars against each other, adulterers, fornicators, robbers, grasping, perjured, mendacious, hating each other. The shepherds will be like wolves; the priests will embrace falsehood; the monks will lust after the things of the world;"

"For great jealousy will prevail in the last days, for each will say what seems pleasing in his own eyes. And they will set aside the prophecies of the prophets, which were before me and also pay no attention to these my visions, in order to speak forth from the torrent of their heart."

Of 1,000 scripts found, those scripts that didn't fall into the hands of untraceable private dealers were governed by a 'Secrecy Rule' up until 1991, when Robert Eisenman and James Robinson published a number of documents followed by Dutch scientist Emanuel Tov laying bare 7 of the scrolls, after which the rule was scrapped and those scripts that are available are mostly published in part, or in the case of the Isaiah Script and the Temple Scroll, in full.

Plenty of links out there, use http://www.yahoo.com/

Be kind to Strangers - The Tale of Sodom and Gomorrah

Perhaps this is a story for Israeli Intelligence who striped me and swabbed my stuff for 6 hours on my first entry to Israel.

Background

The Tale of Sodom and Gomorrah is based on two towns of around the dead sea basin. Now no longer in existence.

It goes a little something like this..

Even as Sodom and Gomorrah, and the cities about them in like manner, giving themselves over to fornication, and going after strange flesh, are set forth for an example, suffering the vengeance of eternal fire.

—Jude 1:7

The inhabitants were especially cruel and unkind when strangers visited, if they were too short for their beds they would be stretched to fit. And if they were too long, their legs were shawn off.

As well as this, they had a particular jealous streak and sought to violate and destroy the looks of young boys subjecting them to sodomy, cruelty and violence onto the flesh to lessen their natural beauty.

A pretty cruel and jealous bunch, God, through the Jews, said he was going to destroy the villages unless they, Lot and his sons, could find ten good men.
Through days of searching, they found not 50, 40 or 30 but just one good man in the whole of Sodom and Gomorrah.

Don't do backwards

God instructed Lot to leave as he had done his bidding, he would be spared.

With his wife, they were instructed to leave the city, and never turn back.

Unfortunately, on the road away from the city, Lot's wife turned to view the fire and brimstone which was reigning down on the two cities bringing about their destruction.

God, in his wrath turned her to a pillar of salt.

Lot's Wife - http://flickr.com/photos/charlesfred/

Now this country is then so sadly burnt up, that nobody cares to come to it... It was of old a most happy land, both for the fruits it bore and the riches of its cities, although it be now all burnt up. It is related how for the impiety of its inhabitants, it was burnt by lightning; in consequence of which there are still the remainders of that divine fire; and the shadows of the five cities are still to be seen, as well as the ashes growing in their fruits, which fruits have a colour as if they were fit to be eaten: but if you pluck them with your hands, they will dissolve into smoke and ashes

—The Wars of the Jews, book 4, chapter 8.

The sites of Sodom and Gomorrah

Are slightly more difficult to locate than the background text.

You're going to need and Israeli visa and enter from the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge checkpoint

View Larger Map

I've marked the two sites on a map. I've not been able to visit today, but the story's a nice one.

Map of Petra Site

Here's a map of Petra.

If you are visiting the site, I suggest you print this map out. They didn't have any in English when I visited.

Map of Petra
1 Djin Blocks	10 Corinthian Tomb	19 Qasr Al-Bint	28 High Palace of Sacrifice
2 Obelisk Tomb	11 Palace Tomb	20 Unfinished Tomb	29 Lion Monument
3 Al-Siq	12 Sextus Florentinus Tomb	21 Al-Habees Museum	30 Garden Temple Complex
4 The Treasury	13 House of Dorotheos	22 Petra Archeological Museum	31 Triclinium
5 Street of Facades	14 The Nymphaeum	23 Lion Triclinium	32 Renaissance Tomb
6 The Theater	15 Colonnaded Street	24 Al-Deir - The Monastery	33 Broken Pediment Tomb
7 Aneisho Tomb	16 Byzantine Church	25 Turkmanian Tomb	34 Roman Soldier Tomb
8 Urn Tomb	17 Winged Lion Temple	26 Conway Tower	35 Snake Monument
9 Silk Tomb	18 The Arched Gate	27 Moghar Annassara	36 Crusader Fort

 

Main Sites

Here's the best of the main sites from Petra, Jordan.

You've got refreshments along the way, so don't worry too much about water.

Obelisk Tomb

Once 7 metres tall. Standing at the entrance caves to Al-siq.

Obelisk Tomb

AL-Siq

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Name for the channel running through the mountain. Used to carry irrigation pipes and there is evidence of the Nabateans building and harnessing water through a number of dams as you pass through.

 
Entrance to Al-siq

 

Al-siq

Al-Khazneh or 'the treasury'

Named the treasury as Bedouins believed there was ancient treasure buried in the urn's which decorate adornments.

Bedouin settlers have routinely taken pot-shots at trying to release the treasure they believed was within. Although that was not possible,  the site is actually a tomb.

 
The 'treasury' Petra

Palace Tombs

A large number of tombs on the south-west face of the Siq mountain.

Probably the largest and most spectacular site in Petra when viewed from the opposite hill, the Palace Tombs are a tribute to the opulence of the nobles who built them.

Standing around 40-metres high they can be easily reached, and there are Bedouin stalls along the way to get refreshments, mint tea, sit down for five minutes.

Palace tombs

Outside palace tombs

 

Inside palace tombs

Colonnaded Street

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Passing the Amphitheatre, you'll  reach this the colonnaded street. On the left you have the remains of a Greco-roman style walkway leads from the Amphitheatre up to the site of the Temple, currently being excavated by Browns university.

On the right is the old river with a number of channels leading into it.

At the base of the Colonnaded Street you have the museums and restaurants.

Route to Crown Plaza buffet

If you want a cheap buffet, I recommend the Crown Plaza. KML

The Bedouins will try and sell you stuff. It's up to you what you buy.

Petra Jordan

KML 30.321 35.463

Recently ascribed Wonder of the World status, Petra is a city carved entirely out of limestone rock.

The Nabateans who used to run camel trains from Egypt to India had their empire based here, once numbering over 30,000 inhabitants.

The city lay undiscovered up until the 1812 when Swiss explorer, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt,  conned local Arabs into letting him into the sacred complex to visit the tomb of Aaron. Dressed as an Arab, he returned with news to the western world and the rest is history, as they say.

Now I've been to a lot of these wonders, I can say the best thing about this one is the weather, because it's built entirely below ground level, you can explore the complex fairly comfortably depending on how much time you've got.

I've got one day, so here's the main sites.

Petra Jordan

Hurghada - Diving on the Reef

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To re-enforce my recently bourne skills, I've taken time out to come here to Hurghada Egypt's second resort after Sharm-el-Sheik.

I've paid €47 for a full days diving with equipment and £2.70 for lunch.

We dive two reefs, Moon Reef then Umm Gammar reef.

I witness some stunning fish and coral, but only manage one picture, of my dive buddy Iressa from Lebanon.

If you wish to check out diving at Hurghada, I can recommend the company, it's located at the Marriott Red Sea resort, which is a good resort.

Dive Buddy

Luxor - Valley of the Queens/Kings/East Bank

So called because, surprisingly, all the statues are located in a valley.

It looks like the valley was created through a mixture of basalt/limestone erosion. The tour guide said it rains once every five years for about 20minutes, so any erosion here taking place because of the Nile or it's flood activities.

For either reason, limestone hilletts have formed in a way you might imagine of hobbiton (the Shire) except in rock. In these little hobbit holes are tombs of dead Kings and Queens from many centuries ago.

Cameras are not allowed.

Hatsheput - Valley of the Queens

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Dressed as a man for purposes of retaining the throne in co-horts with political powers in Egypt at the time who suggested that this would prolong her stay in power.

She took advise, and stayed on the throne for 22 years. Eventually her son Tut-Moses the third destroyed most of her temples and murdered her and ditched her body in the desert, although she does have one of the most impressive tombs on the East bank pictured below.

 
Temple Hatsheput

Valley of the Kings

62 separate tomb discoveries where made here over time.

The ticket permits me to just 4. Rameses the II Rameses the IV and Tut-ankamun.

The tombs tunnel deep into the ground, those of Rameses the IV going down to 30 metres. It's hot down there!

As I say, no pictures allowed.

This picture below gives some illustration to the colours/styles used in the tombs.

Wall painting - temple Hatsheput

Valley of the Nobles

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The valley of the Nobles is slightly separated from the valley of the Kings amidst the carved Quartz workshops that litter the area.

The nobles are slightly different in that they explain how the nobles aspired to a life of plenty, represented by field of crops, fruit and animals, plenty of water, papyrus and other symbols which might make a Egyptian happy.

The tombs are smaller, as might befit a noble. Not as large as a high priest like the one used to bury Tut-ankamun.

Again, no photos. But the guys at the gate try to scam money out of you for extra photos, on the sly.

I tipped one guy for a wafter, but when people ask you to break the rules, things have a tendency of coming back to you.

If you're going to break the rules, you should do so on your on steam, not because someone invites you to, so I always leave 'secret' or 'special' deals for some other mug.

 
Valley of the nobles

Tours in Luxor

If going to learn ANYTHING from the temples @ Luxor the West or East bank, again, you're going to need to book a TOUR.

If you're a single this means, you'll have to visit THOMAS COOK, otherwise, take your pick. The other travel agents deal with 2 people and upwards.

I paid the following for tours with THOMAS COOK in Luxor:-

West Bank. 300ep - £30
East Bank. 225ep - £23

East Bank

The Nile runs north to south. Tours are separated into East and West bank.

After, wandering ruins, returned and booked tour.

This included:-

The temple of Karnak
The temple of Luxor

Both were built over a course of years, thousands of years, the majority of the action taking place 1,300 BC, when they built a harbour which could bring building materials directly.

The temples are decorated with hieroglyphics visible only to nobility and Kings or high priests who conducted daily rituals.
This kept the power focused at the top of the structure.

They say that the success of Egypt is down to the riddle of 'The Riddle of Sphinx' - Intelligence with power.

I'd advocate a certain amount comes from the sharing of knowledge.

You can find details of pretty much everything on these walls including booty from Tut-Moses III forays into Israel, rituals and ceremonies, to details of the kings their godly allegiances. It's all recorded in thousands of hieroglyphics.

Karnak

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The ruins at Karnak are broken into many chambers, each King adding his own section.

It would be safe to say Karnak is the more impressive of the two ruins. Here's a couple of shots to give some identity to the place.

Karnak - Temple of a Million Years 

Early Explorer - John Gordon @ Karnak

 
Russians at Karnak

If you want to take photos the best times are around mid day, (when the tours have gone), or at the sound and light festival when the uplights can provide a bit of contrast.

Luxor

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Or Thebes as it was known. A smaller set of ruins. Impressive with tall columns depicting scenes from the banks of the Nile.

By the time I reach this, I am deep in conversation with some amateur historians about what had made the Egyptian structure so successful. The main reason for their downfall was they spent to much money worshiping, the gods, themselves and whatnot.
We both agreed that 3,000 years was a good run.

The Romans have built a little temple at the edge of the original ruins. Dedicated to Christianity, it seems completely out of place in amongst the hieroglyphics.

Luxor - Karnak Sound and Light Show

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Not to be mist, this captures around and hour just after 6.

Tour

In English, a narration is boomed out from speakers as you are guided around the ancient ruins at Karnak.

Spooky lightshow

Coloured lights Illuminate the various columns, hieroglyphics, plus spooky music adds atmosphere to help describe what it was that made Thebes (Luxor) the great and successful beating heart of the nation.

It's not to heavy, more honest than a BBC documentary, brings you back to the days of Carter and the good old British Empire. (Horahh for Blighty!).

The cost was low @ 75EP.

Luxor Museum

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After Cairo, I was pleased that this was a museum in a traditional sense, in that you might find things of interest and read the little cards they left out.

The museum was encapsulated in three levels, with an introductory video talking about the Egyptian Golden era.

The Golden Era
Spanning from 3400 BC to 39AD.

During this period, Egyptians who had once lived near to the Nile were forced, by climate change, to move nearer the flood plains and formed the first communities. Initially farming, then centres of trading, particularly around Buto in the North.

The development of Writing, allowed passing of ideas or knowledge through hieroglyphics spreading the advancement of technology;
Technology:- Long Bows, Chariots, Calendar, Masonry, Construction, Planning, Specialisation of Labour to mention a few..

A nation united

Through military conquest in upper Egypt, the Hyksos tribe were forced from the delta areas around Giza. Whilst in the south the Nubian tribes were defeated during the reign of Mentuhotep and Amenhotep, who, (latterly), was a particularly fierce and renowned warrior king.

Eventually two kingdoms of north and south Nile were consolidated leading to 3450 years of dominance creating a civilisation to be envied by the world.

The Museum

Goes some way to explaining the customs and warfare, particularly.

Cairo - National Museum

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Again, surprise surprise, you're going to need a guide to gain anything from this museum. One approached me outside and offers to take me round for £15 for 1 and 1/2 hours, £10 per hour.

The thought does cross my mind, so I offer to hang around for more visitors to bring the price lower, at which point he tells me the price will not lower he'll charge us all the same which could equate to £70-80 per hour.
Another example of money-grabbing by the Egyptians, and this guy actually worked for the museum so goes some way to indicating the attitude toward tourism.

Inside the Museum

Once inside the museum is a large circular atrium surrounded by a large rectangle filled with statues and relics.

Photo's are not allowed.

Heavy statues are on the ground floor artifacts and jewellery are on the second floor.

Left wondering

I spend long enough wondering round to realise you're really going to gain nothing without a guide, most of the pieces are labelled without dates, dynasties, locations or any over-riding narrative, story-board or reason d'etre.

This is a shame.
As a visitor, I feel that I really gained nothing from the experience. Apart from feeling that the Egyptians were by far the most advanced civilisation and way ahead of their time, which I felt when I walked in, this museum has been tiring and slightly pointless.

This was opposed to the Coptic Museum which was interesting and informative with over-riding structure and narrative. The aim of this museum seems to be to grab money rather than to educate.

Here's a couple of pictures of what makes the museum famous.

Face Mask of King TUT

Gold Sarcophagus.

If you feel you should visit, you're going to need a guide (again).

It's worth the entrance fee but not the time. You could spend hours and learn nothing.

Cairo - Hanging Church

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Called the hanging Church because it was once positioned over the gatehouse to the Coptic quarters.

Oldest Church

The Coptic hanging church is the oldest church I have visited, dating back to the 7th century. Some parts of the church have been carbon dated, the most recent revealing first construction around 2nd century BC.
It's clear this church has been around in some form for a very long time.

The courtyard and church have a distinctly Arabic feel with intricate wooden carvings, aprons and balconies.

Hanging Church - Courtyard

 
Hanging Church - Entrance

 
Hanging Church - The Inside

Unlike the Church of St. George, this one is entirely Coptic.

Inside the Church

Inside you can find 110 icons dedicated to the Christian faith most of them dating back to the 18th Century some going back as far as the 8th century, it is said this church is one of the earliest examples of Basilica style architecture.

There are continuous tour groups moving through, although this does little to spoil the over-all atmosphere which is made in the upwards direction;

• Admire the wooden timber beams which have made up the construct for many centuries.
• The use of the Basilica Style to bring light into the structure.
• The ornately structured chandeliers.

all make for a warmth of style in keeping with Arabic, European and Christian decorations and considerations.

A pleasure to be in and around.

Weblinks: The Hanging Church website - Find out more about the hanging church, history and visiting times.

Cairo - Nilometer

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Now you may think this is a corny name, "Nilometer, sounds like mileometer". But you must remember, the first Nilometer was in existence in Pharoaic times, possibly before Christ not the other way round.
Duhhh.

The Nilometer in it's current incarnation has been measuring the height of the Nile since 751 and the Arabian conquest, at which point they build a special dome and masonry housing and began measuring regularly the height of the Nile each season.

This records have been kept for 14 centuries and have spawned developments in other areas on science, notably Brownian motion for those physicists out there.

Walk on by

I arrived at the Nilometer after a hefty jaunt from the Raddison, I was greeted by the caretaker who invited me and another English family in to take pictures at which point he told us the various facts.

Facts

The Nilometer stands 10.4 meters tall and consists of a cubit, or forearms length x16 measurement units. During the year the water would flow in and out of the chamber rising and falling and being measured.

When the water was particularly high, all the surrounding land would be ruined and the government could take action. Also if the water was low and drought ensued, the government could again, lower taxes to prevent unrest.

There's a scale:-

http://www.waterhistory.org/

which fiscal decisions for the year could be based.

Explore the shaft

Nilometer Shaft

After this, the caretaker allows us to venture into the musty shaft and explore the damp holes. The shaft has been empty since the building of the Aswan dam.

We all come out smiling :)

Outside the Nilometer

This trip cost 10 EP or £1.

Cairo - Chapel of St. George

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When I arrived in the Old Town area, pretty much everything was closed.

Church of Saint George

After taking a metro into town, which was nearly as hectic as the roads, picking up a map and returning, this was the first place I visited.

The Chapel of St. George is devoted almost entirely to St. George as it's patron in keeping with Coptic tradition with which seems to have fairly strong ties.

They allow photo's inside, unusually for an Orthodox church, but there is a caretaker making sure things don't get out of hand.

Church of Saint George

Crypt of St. George

Downstairs is a crypt dedicated entirely to St. George and his dragon slaying abilities, some coloured frescos and stone carvings, stain-glass windows or alter-fronts. Pretty much a shrine to St. George. You are invited to drop a few pennies and help the upkeep of the various George's and Dragons around the place.

Church of Saint George

Wonder Working Chains

In additional to the normal paraphernalia, the church is kitted out with a 4.2m magical chain. Administered by nuns, it is said that when this chain is attached, it can be a magical cure if venerated and kissed by the patron, with great blessing from George himself.

Particularly mad people and Turks are said to benefit from this most.

Visiting is only on a Friday if you are interested in this particular ceremony.

The church dates back to the 14th Century and has passed between the Roman and Coptic monks.

Cairo - Holy Family Crypt

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The fleeing path of the holy family passed through this spot.

The Holy Family

There are a number of tours explaining the ins and outs of what they got up to.

Basically, when Jesus was born, Herod took it upon himself that the boy had no peace, and pursued the family from Jerusalem, through Jordan into Egypt, where they spent a number of years going from pillar to post.

For those taking it upon themselves, there are tours specially to follow the path of this holy family through Africa and trace the steps of Jesus development and stories.

All interesting stuff.

But, again, since I have no tour I have no information.

Fantastic Shop

There is however, a shop stocking classic furniture and overpriced nic-nacs, similar to the one I came across in X'ian province visiting the terracotta army.
Located in the Crypt of the Holy Family this place was stocked with items you couldn't find anywhere else, you'd have to pay for items to get shipped over in a crate, but the variety and quality means that everyone passing pays a visit in the hope that they might one day buy something and send it back home.

I have seen a number of these places, some in South America selling one off, expensive, quality items of cultural significance unavailable elsewhere.

Maybe one day I'll do a Google map with exact locations and share them out.

Until then, here's just the one.

Standing next to Mummy

The Pyramids @ Giza

After a morning at the pyramids under my own steam found the experience a bit boring. What you'll find are four lumps of rock separated by a few hundred yards of desert and the Sphinx and the bottom.
This did little to satisfy my curiosity as to how the pyramids came about.

Come lunch time, I returned to Mena House and hired a tour guide from reception. This would take me through how they came into existence and in turn I can pass some of this on to you.

The site of the Pyramids

There are 2 sites at Giza, the main one and Saqqara.

Saqqara Located slightly outside of town. Took a taxi down.

This style of step Pyramid came into existence around 2,600 BC and is based on a mastaba, (mausoleum), construction in a progressive step, each step of diminishing size. This gave early builders the chance to move progressively to the pyramids we know today.

Saqqara - First Democracy

Early courtiers were called to watch the first elections in which the King had to prove he was fit to govern, first by running to and fro across the courtyard 30 times, then requesting the gods that they permit his continued reign. If he failed either of these tests he would not be fit to reign.
Since the gods rarely objected, maintaining power was just a question of proving you were of sound body once in a while.

The temple here was designed by the ancient architect, Imhotep. In terms of artistic development, the styles of the temple imitate those present in nature, which would be familiar, for example; palm branches for ceiling, papyrus for columns. This gives the architecture of feeling of opulence through attaching and bettering natures building materials.

Great Pyramid - Giza

There are 3 main Pyramids at Giza belonging to the 4th Dynasty.

They come in three sizes:

Cheops - 187m

Khafre - 183m

Menkaure - 68m

The pyramids were the worlds tallest structure until the Lincoln Cathedral was built in 1300.

Exploration

Howard Carter was sent to explore the pyramids in 1907, at which point most of them had already been looted.

Legends

The Sphinx stands at the entrance to the great pyramids and represents a guardian for the the dead kings. It is said that the Thutmosis IV of the 18th Dynasty had a dream of the sphinx telling him to uncover the part-buried structure, and he would be king.

As legend has it, he undertook to remove the desert sand from the structure, and some years later, was crowned King.

Demise

The Pyramids are the oldest stone structures in the world. 

After the 4th dynasty, pyramid building became less.

Photo's

Great Pyramid - Giza

Sphinx - Giza

Pyramid Complex - Giza

Saqqara

The catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

KML 31.178 29.893

Located in the north-west of the city. The burial chamber of an ancient trading family buried in the Egyptian tradition, with all their slaves, servants animals and worldly goods. The catacombs where discovered when a travellers donkey fell, revealing an entrance to the series of rock hewn caves and chambers.

The main chamber features an elaborate series of carvings surrounding 3 graves, surrounding these 3 are many hundreds of other burial chambers, some dedicated to animals, some to humans.

There is a film crew filming while I go down there. I take a couple with my portable.

Catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

Catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

The Great Library

KML 31.288 30.009

Originally named the Mouseion founded by Ptolemy I Soter based on a model by Aristotle the great philosopher of Greece.

The original library was destroyed in 47 BC, this current version was built in 2003.

Egyptian Intelligence

There is a state visit going on and the place is surrounded with security.

Walls

The walls depict writings of every known language.

Inside the Library

Inside the structure is made up of cascading levels each providing a mezzanine on the one below.
It is vast and impressive.

There are a number of exhibitions throughout the library and a steady stream of tours ploughing through, as well as students and photographers.

New Book

Publications - There are a number of official publications from Organisations such as WIPO, the WTO the World Bank, UNICEF, UNESCO and others. Some of them are up to date [pictured].

 

The Great Library at Alexandria provides a striking contrast with the malaise of the Alexandria. Once inside, you can't help thinking you might be in a different country, London or Europe.

In terms of libraries, this stands out as one of memory due to it's sheer size.

Alexandria Attractions

Having only a limited time frame, 2 days, I've chosen only 2 attractions to visit which are

1- The Catacombs

2- The Great Library

Other attractions included:

The fort of Qait bay*
Saad Zaghloul Statue*
Greaco-Roman Museum** [closed]
Pompey's Pillar*
Stanley Bridge*
Royal Jewelery Museum** [closed]
Montazah Palace*

Travel

Travel round the city is difficult. Traffic conditions are hectic. I witness 2 crashes, one near fatality as a mad person wanders speeding traffic. We miss her by about 40cm.

Also signposting is non-existent. If you want to find anywhere, you'll need GPS.

Montazah Palace, Alexandria

The Church of St. Anthony

kml 28.936 32.352

Was fed by Ravens for over 10 years, a solitary raven brought St. Anthony, who lived to 105, half a loaf of bread each day until he died.

Background

St. Anthony roamed the desert for many years until he came across this the site of the first monastic tradition, started firstly by Anthony the followed by Paul and supported by Ravens.

Monasteries originated from the cave dwelling monks converging on the desert springs.

St. Anthony's Monastery

Later walls were built around them and the cave dwellers came out from their caves to form small communities this was brought about mostly from the need from survival mostly from the elements but sometimes attacking Bedouins drove the monks together, where otherwise they would have had solitary lives.

These monasteries are the first in the world.

They are St. Paul's and St. Anthony's.

Visiting times

Visiting times are from 4am till 4pm.

There are 131 monks living at the monastery at present, much of the building dates back to the 13th century and some has been restored with the help of USAid project. Notably the Byzantine fresco's in the chapel of the St. Anthony restored by Italian artists. Some of the fresco's date back as far as 6th century.

From here you can visit the gardens, the gates and also the spring which supported so many monks.

Spring of St. Anthony

The spring supports 400l of water each day. St. Anthony used to live in a cave 200m above this spring until St. Paul arrived, at which point many more monks came to the area. The spring was able to support them also.

You are able to drink the spring water which is kind of metallic with a hint of phosphorus.

Shop

At the end of the trip you are invited to buy from the shop. As I enter music is turned on to add to the buying ambience. I buy some honey, a bottle of monastic wine and a postcard of a particularly ugly nurse shark.

There are many different gifts and languages.

Mount Sinai

KML 28.539 33.975

Background

Also known as Mount Horeb. It was here Moses witnessed the burning bush whilst tending Joseph's flocks. 'The bush burned but was not consumed' is the common theme. There are different versions.

Sinai derives from the Semitic, Sin or 'Sun God' OR sin-ah, meaning hatred referring to the Jealousy people felt against the Jews. I've been to many places where the sun rises, and this isn't the greatest amongst them.

Definitely a place for reflection.

Moses received the ten commandments here.

Ascent

Mount Sinai is a journey reachable from St. Katherine (town). Where there are a few hotels.

They say that Mount Sinai is best viewed at dawn, when one can wonder at the true spectacle of this desert mountain landscape and the beauty of it all etc. etc.
The truth is, if you attempted in the day, you would suffer heat-stroke, exhaustion or both.

This is a 2 hour, 3 mile jaunt ascent of roughly 1500ft along dusty track followed by steps which last for 700 steps.

Expect to be fit or fast if you want to get there at dawn.

Here are the rewards.

mount Sinai at dawn

chapel at mount Sinai

Descent
Took the descent down the 7,000 step route.

This is the original, steep route, and the one we hear so much about. You will know you are on the right track as you pass through 2 arches.

It descends from the mountain taking in 7,000 rock hewn steps, although I didn't count them so I can't be sure where this statistic was coming from.

One thing I can be sure of was there were no Camel trip or attractions to plunder your money on.

I enjoyed the silence and was able to reflect on how Moses must have been thinking in order to wonder up to such a wild and desolate place and what inspired people to hate the Jews so much..

rocky descent, 7000 steps

The chances of death are high. You're on your own, in every sense. Perhaps more than anywhere else I've ever been. But the silence is great. Shame there are so many tourists around :)

Stop off in Dahab

KML 28.491, 34.516

On my way to Mount St. Katherine, Egypt, and possibly the world's, oldest monastery.

Dahab I was expecting like Sharm, or an old town. Turned out to be an old town.

Here I stopped for some lunch, a haircut and to buy some CD's for the journey.

Dahab was a pleasant town, less low-key than Sharm. The beach is pebble, so I doubt that it would have attracted the same level of interest as Sharm which has lengthily sandy beaches set against resort after resort.

Dahab is not like that.

I could find more in Dahab and faster, so it made a good stop over point and I got all the things done I wanted to do, here's some shots of Dahab.

Cheeky cat eats Aroz

Stuffed fox smokes pipe

The restaurant I stopped in was called Mummy Funny, I had a Hallal Kebab, which, I guess is an Egyptian meal.
It was beef in spicy sauces with peppers (capsicum), potatoes fried in cumin, served with rice and salad.

Took me 5 minutes to eat it and it went down a treat.

PADI - Open water course

Started PADI open water course today.

The course lasts from 3-4 days depending on experience.

I've been given some homework overnight which consists of swatting up on this manual, and being able to prove I'm aware of how to dive safely, then we'll take to the water!

More later.

Day 1
I've decided to write all as one blog makes it easier to read and other things may happen in between but the wonders of modern technology allow me to move the blog to the top of the pile when I write a bit more about this PADI course.

From first impression, the PADI stands out as the most challenging post-academic qualification since my driving test, (which was in 1991).
Today we were learning about pressures and safety. I guess these are the two things which can catch people out to the point of death when diving.

"Not trying to scare you" , is what the instructor said, "but this is not a casual course, we have to obey the laws of physics".
I'm glad someone out there still recognises that laws exist, (and are good).

I reach for my thinking cap and serious face.

Covered:

BCD Buoyancy Control Device: An inflatable jacket.

Second Stage: Another name for a mouthpiece.

Kitting Up: Putting your gear on.

I've learnt how to be comfortable in the water through a 'confined dive', which was conducted in a swimming pool going through equipment, kit, all the blah blah that you do as a matter of course.

Day 2
Got off to a wobbly start @ 9am. But confidence levels made up.
Dived twice: once in shallow water (confined dive). Then later in deeper water.

Saw an octopus and an white eel also a spotted stingray.

Diver log book
Divers log all their dives where you can write about things you experienced on your dive like eels, big or dangerous fish.
We will be learning about this divers log on day 3.

Starting to really enjoy going in the water.

Day 3
Started wobbly as had to move hotel overnight had to arrange all movement of stuff and check-out and the rest of the shebang.

Eventually turned up @ about 10am. An hour late.

Third day is the last day.

I have completed 4 open water dives, one up to 15m.
I fully removed my mask @ 8m and refitted it blowing the water out.
I floated in the water without using any forms of bouyancy, just inhaling and exhaling and maintained a constant position using this method.

Took a dive out in to open water and saw 2 metre long moral eel in the coral. It's head was about 14 inches wide.

After this took a theory test got about 80%, which was enough to pass.

PADI Open Water Diver
Now I am a PADI Open Water Diver.

My certification should be waiting for me when I get home.

Hopefully this will open all sorts of opportunities for employment. A diving Qualification is a professional qualification.

Will this work?

The DVLA have released their newest version of the highway code.
To celebrate the I've done this picture..

Indeed, it looks like a strange devise, but it may yet succeed.

Durmitor National Park - Just a Walk in the Park

Black Lake - Durmitor
KML: lat - 43.14577 lon - 19.09744

The main town in Durmitor is Zabljak.

Here I park up and take a walk for 3 hours.

Summer walks
There are a number of marked walks from a location close to town.

I take a walk around the Black lake, the easiest walk. There are a number of other walks which can be negotiated with the aid of a map.

Njegos Mausoleum - Montenegro

Njegos Mausoleum

Njegos Mausoleum

Njegos Mausoleum
KML: lat - 42.39935 lon - 18.83712

Njegos, or king Njegos to his friends. Perched himself at top the mountain to look down upon the whole of Montenegro in legacy.

Hard-Drive
Wing mirrors be warned, this is a single lane duel for most of the way. Added hazards included boulders mountain goats, sun (in eyes).

Took a Turkish Coffee at the restaurant at the summit. Seated looking West, the views are great and the coffee wasn't bad either.

The Mausoleum itself costs €2 to get in.

Me - Njegos Mausoleum

Ostrog Monastery - Missing Wheel - Montenegro

Ostrog Monastery

Ostrog Monastery
KML: lat - 42.67462 lon - 19.03027

Seems that the mechanic of the monks has been at work here and forgot to remove the spare wheel he's removed from the priests car.

Right in the middle of my photograph as well.

Hex
Perhaps this wheel is a special wheel.
If children were to play with this wheel, I wonder what would happen to them in later life?
Would they grow up normally? Would the curse of the wheel and their childish folly come to haunt them in later life?

Ostrog Monastery - Top Trumps - Montenegro

Ostrog Monastery

Ostrog Monastery
KML: lat - 42.66820 lon - 19.03135

The Monastery at Ostrog is set in the mountainside. Built around original sacred caves where miraculous happenings took place in the 17th century.
The Ostrog monastery is a shrine and pilgrimage for many in the orthodox faith.

St. Andrews Church

St. Andrews Church
Located in a church down the hill is a shrivelled, severed hand in a glass case.

The orthodox priest invites me to kiss the case and offer some money.

No
The priest tells me a story of how the hand was chopped off a peasant boy for stealing, gesticulating toward the fresco on't wall above.
I note to him that the swordsmen in the fresco look like they're Turks "how the boy was special if the Turks came to Montenegro and killed hundreds of other civilians?"
This kind of draws a blank. I end up skipping the hand kissing and he gives me and orthodox playing card for free.

Swapsees
There are many of these playing cards to collect. Like trumps or football cards, you can compare with your friends, swap or see which ones are best over a beer or coffee.

Here's a my favourite Orthodox trump card. If anyone wants to exchange you know how to contact me.

Top Trump

Cetinje Montenegro

Historical capital of Montenegro. Surrounded by basalt mountains more like a Swiss chalet town than a national capital. I had to drive though twice before satisfying myself it was actually the capital.

Yes there are large holes in the ground, some of the roads are not made up and there are large piles of logs in the street, but this town did once used to be the national capital of Montenegro.

There are a few attractions in the town, like the national museum. And some of the women are good looking.

Cetinje Montenegro
KML: lat - 42.38645 lon - 18.92385

Cetinje - Montenegro - Monastery

Cetinje Monastery
KML: lat - 42.38774 lon - 18.92215

Again, the orthodox. People are invited to prostrate themselves at glass boxes.
Each box houses a different worthy god. Kissing is obligatory.

Candles are lit.

There is also a shop selling honey, postcards and different touristic nic-nacs.

Some parts of the monastery are out of bounds.

Cetinje - Montenegro - Museum

Museum Cetinje
KML: lat - 42.38914 lon - 18.92340

Located in the centre of town, this grand old museum documents the chronology of Montenegro from the Romans up until the end of the soviet era.

It makes an interesting series of exhibitions, marked most notable by a wall of portraits of wartime veterans.

There are some interesting weapons here which I have not seen elsewhere.

The exhibition is €3.

Budva - Montenegro

KML: lat - 42.27939 lon - 18.83721

Budva is a vibrant, wealthy beach town.
It's a party town. There are yacht's parked in the marina, there are Porsche's in the car parks and there are notoriously good looking Serbian women walking the streets.

I've it weren't for the Russian dancing music, I would have forgot I was in CEE.

Castle Petrovaradin - Novi Sad

Castle Petreovaradin - Novi Sad

Perched high on a hill. The Serbian Exit festival is held here annually. Live music, and shagging basically.

The castle has been in existence from the 11th Century. It's a large structure incorporating an upper and lower town.

Milosevic's prisoners
The resistance to Milosevic were held here under house arrest in the administrative offices during the period of the last Balkans conflict.

Old and bold
The castle is impressive in size but not in upkeep.

Boston's revenge
It incorporates a clock with a large hour hand, which the Germans used to charge 'clock taxes' for.
Like our government setting up a 'view tax'.

Anyone able to view the clock tower had to pay 'clock tax'.

Drive or Taxi
I drove up.
It would take you 20 minutes of steep inclines by foot. Not what you need after a day walking around town.

KML: lat- 45.25106 lon - 19.85595

Orthodox Cathedral - Novi Sad

Wow what a church.
I just can't get enough of these Orthodox church's.

Doctored religion
After the Schism, each different branch of the church has taken the religion and manipulated to their own means. For instance, if you visit York minister (UK). Take a look round you won't see ONE angel or virgin Mary. Not one. It's all bishops and magnates big rings and sceptres.

Fresh religion
Visiting the orthodox gives a view of a purer form of Christianity. The religion was founded in Ephesus, Turkey; Greece being the first country to stick with it as the national religion.

If you visit orthodox churches. It gives an insight into the original religion.

Orthodox Cathedral - Novi Sad

Orthodox Cathedral - Novi Sad

Orthodox Cathedral - Novi Sad

KML: lat- 45.25762 lon - 19.84757

Newlyweds Gate - Novi Sad

Newlyweds Gate

Slightly oriental in appearance.

Bring on the monkeys
Wouldn't be unusual to see Monkey on the benches chatting to TripitaKa.

Till death do us part
Newlyweds come here to firm things up after the ceremony, the gate giving talisman to those who come here after consecration.

KML: lat- 45.25238 lon - 19.84244

Novi Sad - Slobode Square

Slobode Square - Town Hall

This is the main square in Novi Sad.

Pedestrianised zone
There are life size, fabricated cows located in spots throughout the square.
Each one has been painted up and has the name of the local artists responsible on a placard at the base.

There is a Catholic Cathedral in the square which faces off the town hall. Impressive from the outside, it's in a Gothic brick style with the classic Gothic circular windows.

Slobode Square

KML: lat- 45.25106 lon - 19.85595

Belgrade - Attractions - Nickola Tesla Museum

Nickola Tesla Museum

Now for those of you not familiar with Nickola Tesla, of which I am one, he brings to us a number of important developments in the 21st century. And a classic example of a well meaning inventor/artist/creator who died a poor and lonely man.

Great Inventions
Just to fill you in, here are some of the things we can accredit to Nickola Tesla:

• Radio
• The AC motor
• Modern electric supply grid

Visualisation
A brilliant man, Tesla worked through a method of visualisation.
As opposed to 'trial and error', Tesla conceived all his inventions mentally, and consigned the designs to paper, the drawing board then to be built.

Together with Westinghouse, they built the worlds first Hydro-plant in Niagara Falls CA.

Hands on
The museum is small. There is a demonstration and video which through about half an hour with some hands on jiggery pokery, high voltages and van dem clarke balls, illustrates some of Tesla's inventions.

Spoon bender
Tesla invented a radio controlled boat. When demonstrated, onlookers were so astounded, they were convinced he was controlling it with the power of his mind.

Low frequency weapons
He also discovered low frequency weapons, often only heard about amongst kooks and conspiracy theorists.
These are used by governments to invisibly attack dissidents and foreigners alike using a certain frequency band to produce ill effects in targets.

He also developed something called the death ray.
That's right, not an invention of B-movies, it really exists and Tesla invented it.
He intended to solve word conflict.
Nobody was interested.

Ripped Off
Perhaps the most famous is Tesla's invention of Radio transmission.
Patented, yet later taken and adapted by Marconi for which he received the Nobel prize.

Tesla was a great man who illustrates to us the importance of lawyers.
And, if you think people are out to get you, they generally are.

Belgrade - Attractions - Orthodox Church

Orthodox Church

Much of Serbia's population, up to 85%, follows the Orthodox religion, which is why Slobo was successful in stirring up hate against the other minorities.

A new experience
I have never attended an Orthodox service before, but it was something to behold.
The priests actually sing the service. Not a word is spoken.

Great stuff.

It made me want to go again.

Belgrade - Attractions - Square Nikole Pisca

Dedicated to Nikole Pisca, this small park garden and water feature plays host to local bands, PA's and whatnots.

A mobile phone company were using it when I went past.

Square of Nikole Pisca

This is a view from the square of Nikole Pisca facing toward the houses of parliament.

Belgrade - Attractions - St. Marks Church

St. Marks Church - Belgrade

St. Marks Church - Belgrade

Located next to the houses of parliament, when I visit, St. Marks has a wedding party in attendance.

I am surprised by the number of reasonable looking Serbian women.

Comfort in Cash
Obviously they don't have the same problems with comfort eating as we do in the UK.

east vs west
The church of St. Marks with it's domed spires is a mish mash of east and western influence. I was lucky, the wedding had moved all the pews giving an impression of floor space.

St. Marks Church - Belgrade

I could move around to get the right pictures.

Belgrade - Attractions - Castle Kalemegdan

Kalemegdan - Victor the Victorious

Perched up on a hill, Caste Kalemegdan has a great view down on the river below.

The castle started it' s existence in the 14th century. 'Kale' means castle.
It's surrounded by a park 'megdan' which has exhibits from artists writers and poets year round.

In addition, there are some large guns, remnants of the old days used to launch assaults on the German bombers in WWII.
There's some good little panzers.

If you're into cannons or bombs, or a bit of a war buff, you will surely find this exciting.

Kalemegdan - Cannon

Atop the complex is a picture of Victor the Victorious, dedicated to Serbian victories in the Balkans conflict 1930-2.

Belgrade - Attractions - Square Republica

Square Republica - Belgrade

Center of Belgrades touristy pedestrian zone where all seems normal and westernised.

Buses are free in Belgrade and most of them lead here.

History
There is some history about the square. I've no doubt read it and forgot it, so I'm not going to bore you with it.

If you want to shop this is the place to start.

Wonders of the Modern World

Register your vote for the Seven New Wonders of the world.

Following the destruction of the old ones.
An international consortium has set up a website where homo-sapiens can register their approval of 7 new wonders http://www.new7wonders.com/.

Old Wonders:

• Great Pyramid of Giza
• Hanging Gardens of Babylon
• Temple of Artemis at Ephesus
• Statue of Zeus at Olympia
• Mausoleum of Maussollos at Halicarnassus
• Colossus of Rhodes
• Lighthouse of Alexandria

Proposed Modern Wonders:

• Angkor Wat(12th century) Cambodia
• Chichén Itzá (before 800 A.D.) Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico
• Christ Redeemer (1931) Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
• Statues of Easter Island (10th - 16th Century) Easter Island, Chile
• Machu Picchu (1460-1470), Peru

Amongst others.

Results are due to be announced in Portugal on 07.07.07.

Trout @ Lake Taupo

Probably the most famous spot in New Zealand for sports fishing.

Hooked 3 landed 3.

The lake is the biggest in New Zealand. We trolled at 210ft. for about 2-3hrs.

Here's a picture of my good self with fish.

Trout @ Taupo, New Zealand

Let the other 2 go.

This was the smallest.

Zorbing - NZ

Popularised by Andrew Akers, Zorbing is the pursuit which involves immersing yourself in water, surrounding yourself in a giant inflatable ball, then rolling yourself down a hill.

I took two rolls, one with harness the other immersed in bubble bath.

Here’s a video.

Zorbing - Rotorua, New Zealand

Weblinks: Zorbing

Wai o Tapo - Geyser

One of the main attractions and features of Rotorua and the area is the high level of geothermal activity.

On the same rift as White Island, mentioned earlier in this blog, Rotorua is renowned for it baths and geothermal formations.

No where can these be found in more glory than at the Wai-o-Tapo park.

Lady Knox
A 15m Geyser erupting daily.
Lady Knox Geyser, New Zealand
Lady Knox Geyser, New Zealand
Each morning there is a regular show at 10.15am.

Weblinks: Lady Knox

Rotorua - Buried Village

Buried Village, Rotorua
Buried Village, Rotorua
Part of the range of attractions on offer around Rotorua, family owned, the lost village tells a story through a museum and guided tour, of how a village Te Wairoa and it’s notaries were either buried or managed to escape the eruptions of Tarawera in 1886.

Swingers, Museum, Buried Village, Rotorua

Te Wairoa
A point of departure for international tourists to take the pink and white terrace lakes, calciated lakes similar to that which can be found in Pummukale Turkey.

The main hotel was owned by a Scotsman, McRae, it was from here a local notary, Guide Sophie used to take parties up to the terraces.

Buried Village, Rotorua

Omen
Part of this included a trip across a lake Rotomahana.

Ten days before the eruption, crossing this lake, dog headed apparitions were spotted in in a Maori war canoe, none of which existed in the area.
The village elder who accurately predicted this was an omen of doom and bad things would follow.

Lost
Ten days later at 1am in the morning the village was buried and 150 of the residents had lost their lives.

Set in beautiful surroundings, including jungle, trout streams, waterfalls, interspersing the various bits of ruin and excavations along the way, this was a good way to spend the afternoon as the weather stayed good.

Weblinks: Buried Village

Maori Hangi - Rotorua

Currently holed up at the Novotel, Rotarau.

Last night went to Maori Hangi and concert.

Have this photo which was taken before the batteries ran out of the portable.



The show consisted of a ceremony in which I was requested to rub noses with a Maori warrior. Then given a frond of NZ fern.

My tribe (table) was then given priority eating privileges.

Should be chief more often.

Anyway, this was a good night out.

Weblinks: Hangi

Auckland

Auckland, New Zealand
Have made it back to Auckland.

The Factory - White Island

Factory then.

Factory, White Island, New Zealand
Factory Now,

Factory, White Island, New Zealand
Perhaps the reason why there is still lingering interest in the island, is the presence of the factory.

Jinx
This ill fated operation was subject to a number of explosions and re-locations, at one point the factory was blown out to sea along with the sulphur miners.
This didn't stop the Kiwi's coming back for more.

Here's what they were attracted to.

Sulphur, White Island, New Zealand Sulphur.

New Hope
With the construction of a new factory further away from the crater, and the creation of huts outside the active area of the island, the miners believed this would put an end to the deaths.

After 3 months of operation this fresh factory blew one of the settling vats, killing three and injuring 1.

One of the miners threw himself to his death in one of the acidic lakes.

All labour in vain
Had they had risk assessment in the 1930's they would have realised that the sulphurous rocks were not pure enough to sustain a profitable operation.

Had it happened in the modern day, health and safety would have closed it down.

Still, it makes a nice day out for us.

PeeJay's tours run two boats a day, plus there's helicopters if you want to pay the extra.

Holidaying on White Island

Travelling with PeeJay's.

White Island is about 40k off-shore. Takes about 1 1/2 hours to get there.

In 1932 there was a sulphur mining operation on the island. After repeated eruptions, deaths and eventually bankrupcy, operations ceased.

The island now is like a moving sand of volcanic activity.


White Island, New Zealand
As you can see the place is not exactly Hawaii.

Don't look into the Rain
We are told stories of melting radio's zippers, trainer islets, items of clothing, the rain is acid, the floor is a shifting crust of ash beneath which lies pools of boiling mud.

It is home to the worlds most acidic lake.

White Island, New Zealand
At PH1, this lake is pure hydrochloric acid, there were still Germans rolling their towels out beside it as we arrived.


White Island, New Zealand
Everything on this island seems to explode or break. Which is why we are given helmets and gas masks when we arrive.

Weblinks: PeeJays
Weblinks: White Island

East Cape - New Zealand

East Cape Lighthouse, New Zealand
Whangaokeno Island, New Zealand
East Point lighthouse.

Initially on the island.
The islanders didn't get on and the lighthouse began to slip off the island with the continuous earthquakes.
They all moved out and someone called Goldsmith bought the island and proceeded to erect starter homes for Maori fisher families.

You can't see them on this photo but that's what happened.

This is the eastern most lighthouse NZ, also the world.

Wellington - Cable Car and Botanical Gardens

Wellington, Botanical Gardens, New Zealand
Wellington, Botanical Gardens, New Zealand
Wellington, Botanical Gardens, New Zealand
You can take a cable car which takes you from the town centre up to Wellington's Botanical Gardens.

Then walk down through the gardens.

Te Papa Museum - Wellington

Here on recommendation from old Kezza.

Had a late lunch in Intercontinental and spent the afternoon in this, New Zealand's national museum.

Natural History, Arts, Settlers, Maori, Geology.

There are 5 floors. It is modern. I didn't like some of the plastic displays which were on the lower floors which were full of kids.
As you went up though the kids diminished. There were a couple of good displays. And it was generally a good place to wander round for a few hours.

Here's a couple of displays.

NZ Arrivals, Te Papa Museum, New Zealand
Shows imported species.
You can look at this whilst it scrolls through species introduced from 1796 up until 2006.
Acclimatisation is the technical phrase for it.
When the settlers first arrived the sheep refused to eat the grass, didn't like the taste.
Other interesting introductions include trout and salmon in 1897.

Corn Beef Cow, Te Papa Museum, New Zealand
Corn Beef Cow.

Weblinks: Te Papa Museum

Three of the Best - Franz Josef, Tasman and Fox Glacier

These are 3 of the most active and largest Glaciers in New Zealand with ice-flows in the region of 4 meters per day.

Spectacular.

Here are some photos to give you an impression.

Helicopter Flight
I have opted to take a helicopter flight. The weather is just good enough for us to take in 3 glaciers, 2 on the west side of Mount Cook and the Tasman on the east.

Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef, Takeoff. New Zealand

Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand

Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand

Fox Glacier
Fox Glacier, New Zealand

Fox Glacier, New Zealand


These are the two opposing watersheds West side.

Crevasses
Crevasses, Fox Glacier, New Zealand

Tasman Glacier
This is New Zealand's longest glacier at 8km long.

Tasman Glacier, New Zealand

Tasman Glacier, New Zealand

Nothing can prepare you for coming round Mt. Cook and looking down from 10,000 feet on this monster, the mountains of the Cook range in the background.

It's still difficult to believe it took so short a time to get up here.

If you were to climb, the gravity of the mountain, surroundings and views would be once in a lifetime.

But hey, we don't all have the time and experience to climb 10,000ft mountains, so these photo's go some way of reminding me how amazing a place this is.

Glacier

Thats right, it's a Glacier.

Three of the best
New Zealand is the only place in the world, where glaciers and rain forest meet.

Milford Sound Underwater Centre

Milford Sound Underwater Centre, New Zealand
This is not part of the tour and costs and additional $25.

Underwater
Gives you the opportunity to get down to Milford's salt water layer and observe the wealth of wildlife.

This isn't like Loch Ness, where you might have the odd sock floating around, there are many fish, corals and life going on 10m under.

Friend
These fish were showing off for me.

Notice the particularly ugly one at the front.

Milford Sound - Underwater Center, New Zealand

Weblinks: Milford Sound Underwater Observatory

Milford Sound

Milford Sound is one of New Zealand's top attractions.

The drive down takes 2hrs and takes in some dramatic countryside.

Knobs Flat, New Zealand

Mitre Peak, New Zealand

The area was discovered by a Welshman who got blown off course into the mouth of the sound and it effectively saved his life.

Milford Fjord
At the time, the English had no word for a fjord, so the Welshman named it Milford Haven, which was subsequently re-named Milford Sound.

Granite Peaks
You cannot fail to be inspired, the rocks here are mighty.

Two tectonic plates meet here, the Pacific and the Australasian which goes some way by way of beginning to explain how such a dramatic landscape was created.

As you drift along in the boat, its like someone has come and smashed the sides of the rocks away with a hammer.

Milford Tour Options
There are a number of choices and options, but most tours are done through boats.
The company I went with was Red Boats 'Encounter' nature cruise.

This takes in the sights, but without the bus loads of tour parties which congregate around the harbour area.

Here are some pictures when we set sail.

Most Popular
This is the most photographed view in New Zealand.

New Zealands Most Popular Photograph


The Entrance to Milford Sound, New Zealand

One of the advantages of the smaller boat was it's maneuverability and ability to get close in to the rocks.

Waterfalls
This tour actually goes under a number of the waterfalls which run off the granite outcrops as you go along.

Bowen Falls, Milford Sound
Stanley Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Pixie Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand

It was hot, so we welcomed getting under the water for a bit of a cool.

Seals
Here's some seals doing what they do best.

Seals, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Weblinks: Red Boats

Southland Museum

Invercargill has penguins walking the streets in the winter.

I have heard this therefore it must be true.

To find out some more interesting facts to be had about the area, I’ve taken some time out to visit the Southland Museum.

There are some nice displays on Maori art. And other bits and pieces that indicate Maori efficiency at catching fish.

Here are some Maori clubs.

Maori clubs, Southland Museum, New Zealand

The Maori used a full bodied thrusting action to gain maximum effect from these stubby clubs.

Sub-Antarctic islands

Upstairs at the museum is a exhibit by Greenpeace about the southern islands or the sub-Antarctic islands.

Windswept, cold, full of seagulls.

Fate
Each island tells a story of unlucky travellers after being thrashed upon the rocks, clambering up to face death or starvation or de-hydration under grotesque circumstances.
Whalers, sealers or seamen were forced to eat whelks, limpets anything they could get their hands on.

Differing explorers suffered different fates, which are documented.

One group made a go of it.
By the time they were picked up they had cultivated 2 hectares of potatoes and harvested 3,000 seal skins.

Southland Museum, New Zealand
Weblinks: Southland Museum

The road to Invercargill

Today I am going to journey southwards.

I plan to drop in on Duneden and Invercargill.

Dunedin

Have just driven through the town-centre.

It really isn’t worth getting off the bike.

Re-Fill
Stop a Micky-dees in the industrial estate for essential carbs.

The Southern Scenic route

This winds it's way gently through the lowlands surrounding the south-east of New Zealands south island.

It's free.

It passes through The Catlin National park Nature Reserve.

It runs from Dunedin right through to Invercargill taking in many impressive sights on the way.

Here's some pictures I took along the way.

Southern Scenic Route, New Zealand

Southern Scenic Route, New Zealand

Southern Scenic Route, New Zealand

Purakaunui Falls.
A stopover point a couple of km's of the main route on a dirt track.

It's impressive because the falls are in a semi-tropical setting, canopy sub-canopy, Lyrebirds etc.

Purakaunui Falls, New Zealand

Tuatuku Beach
Like Harlech beach for length and spread, this one stretches for miles and you can get a great view from the headland.

Tuatuku Beach, New Zealand

Mclean Falls
Located slightly of the road.

Mclean Falls, New Zealand

After a tramp through the bushes, you are rewarded.

Youths were cooking noodles on the rocks at the base. One is obscuring the picture here.

Mclean Falls, New Zealand
Here's a view from the 5km unmade road you need to travel down to reach the Mclean falls.

Mclean Falls, New Zealand

Cathedral Caves
Located on private land, you have to pay to get into this one.

Cathedral Caves, New Zealand

As you enter the gate keeper hut, they sell postcards of different views of the caves which are located on the shoreline.

Cathedral Caves, New Zealand

There is even one picture with a couple getting married.


Weblinks: Southern Scenic Route - New Zealand

Kiwi Birdlife Park

Another place which is worth a visit, is the Kiwi Bird Sactuary.

This has live Kiwi’s to watch in their natural habitat.

It has some interesting bits of natural wild-birdlife up-close, including walk-in aviaries, allowing the birds to grab hold of any attractive sundries you may have about your person.
Doesn’t happen often, but there is an amusing story about a missing lens cover on the audio-guide supplied when you walk in.

Visit @ 11am or 3pm to take advantage of the live Maouri show.

Here's a few pictures.


Walk in Aviary, Kiwi Birdlife Park, Queenstown

Some ducks hanging out.
Kiwi Birdlife Park, Queenstown, New Zealand


Maouri Hut, Kiwi Birdlife Park, New Zealand

A Maouri house before settlers arrived.

A whole Maouri family whould fit in one of these.
They used to sleep close to the floor so as to overwhelm attackers when they stooped down spearing them in the face.

Shotover Jet - Queenstown

Took this afternoon, a bright and sunny one, to do the shotover Jet.

The guide told us it was only the third time this summer he has been able to wear a t-shirt.

The summer has been a complete wash out.

Minibus
The deal is you take a bus down from downtown Queenstown over to the upper reaches of the shotover river. From here you recieve a little training on safety and what not to do, then you're off.

Boat
The jet boats look pretty cool.
500 horsepower Buick v-twins each with about 15 passengers each.

In you get then for about 1/2 an hour you career down the shotover through some dramatic canyons in the lush green mountain terain.

The river is light blue, so clear you can see the fish swimming at the bottom of it.
All of this is lost on you as most of your concentration is on keeping from going overboard.

Don't eat heavily before boarding this ride. The steady series of shocks and turns will see your food making a second appearance.

The driver gives you a little commentary as you rush along.
There's a couple of things to be pointed out and learned, most specifically that the Shotover is the reason that Queenstown was populated in the first place due to $50,000,000 dollars worth of gold attributed to being found along its length.

Here's a couple of pictures of the Jet Boats.

Shotover Jet, Queenstown

Shotover Jet, Jetboat, Queenstown

Meet the oldest rider, George.

Kawarau Bridge - Bungy jump

The first commercial Bungy site.

Copying from drug crazed egalitarian tribes down in South America somewhere, AJ and his friend from Holland had an idea that this might be a good thing to do.
Working together with scientists from the local university, they developed a formula to make the first Bungy rope.

This was to string people from a local bridge.

Mad
Initially as the blurb will tell you no-one was interested in this ridiculous and frightening sport. And in the first year they only managed to find 28 people mad enough to do it.

Sales
Hackett developed the 'Bungy Code of Practice' to qualify and quantify this mad new pursuit.

Slowly, more and more normal punters came in, Hackett become the Bill Gates of Bungy and Bungy became the multimillion pound sport it is today.

Kawarau Bridge, Bungy, New Zealand

I did all this Bungy bollocks in Australia a few years back.
If you haven't done it, you need to do it. If you have, don't feel you need to do it again (unless your friends are watching, which mine aren't ;) ).

Weblinks: AJ Hackett

Queenstown - Original Experiences

For those unfamiliar with New Zealand, Queenstown is like the adrenaline activity hotspot for New Zealand.

For Australia, it might be Cairns.
For Chile, it's Pucon.
For Argentina, Bariloche.
For New Zealand, it's Queenstown.

A little history
AJ Hackett first came up with the idea of Bungy jumping here things have been on the up and up since.

Rafting, fishing, heli-biking pretty much any activity you can think of goes off here.

Although there is too much to go into detail in this blog. The main ones you can find of interest and originality to Queenstown are:-

Jetboating
As well as the standard adrenaline junky fare, Queenstown lays claim to being the originator of some unique Kiwi technology.

I order to navigate the rivers, often empty and full of stones, a clever Kiwi had the idea of removing the propeller and replacing it with an internal jet engine.
That way they could travel the length of the rivers even when the water levels were low without smashing up the power prop.

The Kiwi's love this and have turned into a tourist industry. Jet boating.

Bungy Jumping
As the town where Bungy first reared its bobbing head, the town has a number of sites scattered around it's peripheries.
The main ones are Nevis, the swing and Karawau, the original.

Routeburn Trial
Probably the most famous walking route in New Zealand originates in the peripheries of the town.
Anyone serious about hiking, or with a couple of weeks in the itinerary should consider this trial as a once in a lifetime experience.
Bring your tent.

Weblinks: Jetboating - Shotover
Weblinks: Bungy - AJ Hackett
Weblinks: Routeburn - Routeburn

Lake Pukaki

Lake Pukaki

Here's a shot of Lake Bukaki.

It's at the base of mount cook.

Sounds like
This will explain why the region is so popular with the Japanese, they come here in numbers.

The Cook

Took about 7hrs and 2 Police encounters.

I'm here now.

I can feel safe now.

I am staying at [The Hermitage]. It has inclusive grades of rooms depending on the level of altitude and thus, dollar.

$460 was top dollar.

I was just in for a sleep.

Here's a picture from my rooom.

The Hermitage, New Zealand

First Night Shot

Gondola Ridge, Christchurch

Took the Gondola up to the mountain ridge.

All the land, Gondolas and Gondola complex is owned by mauoris.

Chistchurch Notaries

Christchurch was established by a number of notaries setting up the church, council and attracting settlers to the new lifestyle.


Robert Godley
Known as the "Founder of Canterbury".
Educated at Harrow, and later Christ College, Oxford, Godley used travel experience in America and Ireland to encourage and develop those administrative and industrial aspects which would work for New Zealand.

Benjamin Mountfort
Responsible for Christchurch's notable Gothic style, which can be seen throughout the Civic, educational and religious buildings which make up the historical backbone of the city.
Benjamin Mountfort arrived on one of the first 4 founding ships and was party to the colonial settlement plans which led to the development of Christchurch.


Kate Sheppard
Christchurch born, Kate Sheppard here pictured on the $10 note is responsible for making New Zealand the first country in the world to give women equal rights in 1893.

Walking tour of Canterbury

Ferrier Fountain, Kilmore Street
Christchurch Millenium Chalice
Spent today with a walking tour, taking in the various sites in the city of Christchurch, New Zealand.

Christchurch was a boggy land home to the first batch of settlers in New Zealand.
First settled by a small number of Maouris, then later on the English, there is evidence of English architecture everywhere. The early adminstrative buildings were built in a style with some raw materials originating locally and others being shipped in which gives the place a dignified air for it's relative size.

Victoria Square, Floral Clock