Best and Worst - Hotels in Egypt

Having travelled the length and width of Egypt roughly 7,000km, I feel I'm in a position to give information on what I found to be the best and the worst hotels in Egypt.

Best hotel in Egypt
Iberhotel - Luxor: $100 per night. View over the Nile. 10 minute walk into town, what more could you ask for?

Shot of the Iberhotel Luxor

Book Here:-  Iberhotel Luxor

Worst hotel in Egypt
Hyatt - Cairo: $400 per night. Rude service. Domineering attitude. Made life difficult at every opportunity. A poor choice for any non-arab staying in Cairo. 

Hyatt Cairo

Book Here:-

Religious sites in Egypt/Jordan/Israel

I intend to keep this up to date; giving clear GPS fixes of the most important religious sites in Egypt.

Mount Sinai
Where Moses received the ten Commandments.

Located: 28.539 33.975

Monastery of St. Anthony
The oldest surviving monastery.

Located: 28.936 32.352

Towns of Sodom & Gomorrah
God's destruction upon early buggers.

View Larger Map

Dead Sea Scrolls
Testament by the Essenes to the Second Coming of Christ. 

Located: 31.77369 35.2039

Church of the Nativity
Site of the Birth of Christ

Located: 31.70431 35.20736

Church of the Holy Sepulcher
Site of the death of Christ

Located: 31.77802 35.22980

Jordan border crossing

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Am now in Aquaba Jordan after a slightly prolonged stay in Israel.

Border Problems

Got delayed which led to a late arrival at the Jordanian border, which is pretty close about 8KM from Egypt.

I was delayed and the border closed @ 8pm.

I had to wait till 6am the next morning on the benches outside the border crossing.

The border crossing itself was like something from the iron curtain; all landmine strips, watchtowers and dogs.

Made for a memorable crossing, got to wonder through Elat prime Israel resort, visit Herod's or the King's Resort a cultural head ducking for a Christian. The fact that the Jews celebrate this King who almost destroyed our King and Saviour as well as murdering a load of his own, innocent people in the process seems slightly alien, to say the least.

I'm sure many Christians would be outraged by the existence of a Herod's, and is really not something to celebrate. Still, we'll be back in Israel and we can delve into that deeper later.

Monkeys bar

Took this picture from outside the Monkeys bar Elat, on the promenade you can find top hotels, eateries, stalls with candy floss, designer goods, bits and pieces and lots of Jewish youths wandering around.

Monkeys bar - Elat, Israel

Aquaba

Have eventually reached Aquaba.

Have to arrange a tour for tomorrow, to a site know as Wadi-rum, a geo-wonderland explored by camel incorporating some spectacular rock formations in desert climate which should be fun. I'm into my rocks.

Hurghada to Sharm el Sheik

Have spent the best part of today driving. Hurghada to Sharm el Sheik.

Gave some policemen a lift, thought they where flagging me down and they just jumped in.

Bye Bye Egypt

So that's my journey's over, pretty much.

Tomorrow I take a taxi to Taba to prepare for a crossing into pastures new!

Tune in for the next edition.

Hurghada - Diving on the Reef

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To re-enforce my recently bourne skills, I've taken time out to come here to Hurghada Egypt's second resort after Sharm-el-Sheik.

I've paid €47 for a full days diving with equipment and £2.70 for lunch.

We dive two reefs, Moon Reef then Umm Gammar reef.

I witness some stunning fish and coral, but only manage one picture, of my dive buddy Iressa from Lebanon.

If you wish to check out diving at Hurghada, I can recommend the company, it's located at the Marriott Red Sea resort, which is a good resort.

Dive Buddy

Luxor - Valley of the Queens/Kings/East Bank

So called because, surprisingly, all the statues are located in a valley.

It looks like the valley was created through a mixture of basalt/limestone erosion. The tour guide said it rains once every five years for about 20minutes, so any erosion here taking place because of the Nile or it's flood activities.

For either reason, limestone hilletts have formed in a way you might imagine of hobbiton (the Shire) except in rock. In these little hobbit holes are tombs of dead Kings and Queens from many centuries ago.

Cameras are not allowed.

Hatsheput - Valley of the Queens

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Dressed as a man for purposes of retaining the throne in co-horts with political powers in Egypt at the time who suggested that this would prolong her stay in power.

She took advise, and stayed on the throne for 22 years. Eventually her son Tut-Moses the third destroyed most of her temples and murdered her and ditched her body in the desert, although she does have one of the most impressive tombs on the East bank pictured below.

 
Temple Hatsheput

Valley of the Kings

62 separate tomb discoveries where made here over time.

The ticket permits me to just 4. Rameses the II Rameses the IV and Tut-ankamun.

The tombs tunnel deep into the ground, those of Rameses the IV going down to 30 metres. It's hot down there!

As I say, no pictures allowed.

This picture below gives some illustration to the colours/styles used in the tombs.

Wall painting - temple Hatsheput

Valley of the Nobles

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The valley of the Nobles is slightly separated from the valley of the Kings amidst the carved Quartz workshops that litter the area.

The nobles are slightly different in that they explain how the nobles aspired to a life of plenty, represented by field of crops, fruit and animals, plenty of water, papyrus and other symbols which might make a Egyptian happy.

The tombs are smaller, as might befit a noble. Not as large as a high priest like the one used to bury Tut-ankamun.

Again, no photos. But the guys at the gate try to scam money out of you for extra photos, on the sly.

I tipped one guy for a wafter, but when people ask you to break the rules, things have a tendency of coming back to you.

If you're going to break the rules, you should do so on your on steam, not because someone invites you to, so I always leave 'secret' or 'special' deals for some other mug.

 
Valley of the nobles

Tours in Luxor

If going to learn ANYTHING from the temples @ Luxor the West or East bank, again, you're going to need to book a TOUR.

If you're a single this means, you'll have to visit THOMAS COOK, otherwise, take your pick. The other travel agents deal with 2 people and upwards.

I paid the following for tours with THOMAS COOK in Luxor:-

West Bank. 300ep - £30
East Bank. 225ep - £23

East Bank

The Nile runs north to south. Tours are separated into East and West bank.

After, wandering ruins, returned and booked tour.

This included:-

The temple of Karnak
The temple of Luxor

Both were built over a course of years, thousands of years, the majority of the action taking place 1,300 BC, when they built a harbour which could bring building materials directly.

The temples are decorated with hieroglyphics visible only to nobility and Kings or high priests who conducted daily rituals.
This kept the power focused at the top of the structure.

They say that the success of Egypt is down to the riddle of 'The Riddle of Sphinx' - Intelligence with power.

I'd advocate a certain amount comes from the sharing of knowledge.

You can find details of pretty much everything on these walls including booty from Tut-Moses III forays into Israel, rituals and ceremonies, to details of the kings their godly allegiances. It's all recorded in thousands of hieroglyphics.

Karnak

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The ruins at Karnak are broken into many chambers, each King adding his own section.

It would be safe to say Karnak is the more impressive of the two ruins. Here's a couple of shots to give some identity to the place.

Karnak - Temple of a Million Years 

Early Explorer - John Gordon @ Karnak

 
Russians at Karnak

If you want to take photos the best times are around mid day, (when the tours have gone), or at the sound and light festival when the uplights can provide a bit of contrast.

Luxor

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Or Thebes as it was known. A smaller set of ruins. Impressive with tall columns depicting scenes from the banks of the Nile.

By the time I reach this, I am deep in conversation with some amateur historians about what had made the Egyptian structure so successful. The main reason for their downfall was they spent to much money worshiping, the gods, themselves and whatnot.
We both agreed that 3,000 years was a good run.

The Romans have built a little temple at the edge of the original ruins. Dedicated to Christianity, it seems completely out of place in amongst the hieroglyphics.

Luxor - Karnak Sound and Light Show

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Not to be mist, this captures around and hour just after 6.

Tour

In English, a narration is boomed out from speakers as you are guided around the ancient ruins at Karnak.

Spooky lightshow

Coloured lights Illuminate the various columns, hieroglyphics, plus spooky music adds atmosphere to help describe what it was that made Thebes (Luxor) the great and successful beating heart of the nation.

It's not to heavy, more honest than a BBC documentary, brings you back to the days of Carter and the good old British Empire. (Horahh for Blighty!).

The cost was low @ 75EP.

Luxor Museum

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After Cairo, I was pleased that this was a museum in a traditional sense, in that you might find things of interest and read the little cards they left out.

The museum was encapsulated in three levels, with an introductory video talking about the Egyptian Golden era.

The Golden Era
Spanning from 3400 BC to 39AD.

During this period, Egyptians who had once lived near to the Nile were forced, by climate change, to move nearer the flood plains and formed the first communities. Initially farming, then centres of trading, particularly around Buto in the North.

The development of Writing, allowed passing of ideas or knowledge through hieroglyphics spreading the advancement of technology;
Technology:- Long Bows, Chariots, Calendar, Masonry, Construction, Planning, Specialisation of Labour to mention a few..

A nation united

Through military conquest in upper Egypt, the Hyksos tribe were forced from the delta areas around Giza. Whilst in the south the Nubian tribes were defeated during the reign of Mentuhotep and Amenhotep, who, (latterly), was a particularly fierce and renowned warrior king.

Eventually two kingdoms of north and south Nile were consolidated leading to 3450 years of dominance creating a civilisation to be envied by the world.

The Museum

Goes some way to explaining the customs and warfare, particularly.

Luxor

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It is 13hr 514 mile drive to Luxor, during which I only witness two crashes, not bad by North African standards.

Iberhotel Luxor

Am now stationed at the Iberhotel, by far the cheapest hotel I've stayed in so far at about £50 per night.

The room directly overlooks the Nile.

I feel fairly exhausted.

Nile view

Cairo - National Museum

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Again, surprise surprise, you're going to need a guide to gain anything from this museum. One approached me outside and offers to take me round for £15 for 1 and 1/2 hours, £10 per hour.

The thought does cross my mind, so I offer to hang around for more visitors to bring the price lower, at which point he tells me the price will not lower he'll charge us all the same which could equate to £70-80 per hour.
Another example of money-grabbing by the Egyptians, and this guy actually worked for the museum so goes some way to indicating the attitude toward tourism.

Inside the Museum

Once inside the museum is a large circular atrium surrounded by a large rectangle filled with statues and relics.

Photo's are not allowed.

Heavy statues are on the ground floor artifacts and jewellery are on the second floor.

Left wondering

I spend long enough wondering round to realise you're really going to gain nothing without a guide, most of the pieces are labelled without dates, dynasties, locations or any over-riding narrative, story-board or reason d'etre.

This is a shame.
As a visitor, I feel that I really gained nothing from the experience. Apart from feeling that the Egyptians were by far the most advanced civilisation and way ahead of their time, which I felt when I walked in, this museum has been tiring and slightly pointless.

This was opposed to the Coptic Museum which was interesting and informative with over-riding structure and narrative. The aim of this museum seems to be to grab money rather than to educate.

Here's a couple of pictures of what makes the museum famous.

Face Mask of King TUT

Gold Sarcophagus.

If you feel you should visit, you're going to need a guide (again).

It's worth the entrance fee but not the time. You could spend hours and learn nothing.

Cairo - Hanging Church

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Called the hanging Church because it was once positioned over the gatehouse to the Coptic quarters.

Oldest Church

The Coptic hanging church is the oldest church I have visited, dating back to the 7th century. Some parts of the church have been carbon dated, the most recent revealing first construction around 2nd century BC.
It's clear this church has been around in some form for a very long time.

The courtyard and church have a distinctly Arabic feel with intricate wooden carvings, aprons and balconies.

Hanging Church - Courtyard

 
Hanging Church - Entrance

 
Hanging Church - The Inside

Unlike the Church of St. George, this one is entirely Coptic.

Inside the Church

Inside you can find 110 icons dedicated to the Christian faith most of them dating back to the 18th Century some going back as far as the 8th century, it is said this church is one of the earliest examples of Basilica style architecture.

There are continuous tour groups moving through, although this does little to spoil the over-all atmosphere which is made in the upwards direction;

• Admire the wooden timber beams which have made up the construct for many centuries.
• The use of the Basilica Style to bring light into the structure.
• The ornately structured chandeliers.

all make for a warmth of style in keeping with Arabic, European and Christian decorations and considerations.

A pleasure to be in and around.

Weblinks: The Hanging Church website - Find out more about the hanging church, history and visiting times.

Cairo - Nilometer

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Now you may think this is a corny name, "Nilometer, sounds like mileometer". But you must remember, the first Nilometer was in existence in Pharoaic times, possibly before Christ not the other way round.
Duhhh.

The Nilometer in it's current incarnation has been measuring the height of the Nile since 751 and the Arabian conquest, at which point they build a special dome and masonry housing and began measuring regularly the height of the Nile each season.

This records have been kept for 14 centuries and have spawned developments in other areas on science, notably Brownian motion for those physicists out there.

Walk on by

I arrived at the Nilometer after a hefty jaunt from the Raddison, I was greeted by the caretaker who invited me and another English family in to take pictures at which point he told us the various facts.

Facts

The Nilometer stands 10.4 meters tall and consists of a cubit, or forearms length x16 measurement units. During the year the water would flow in and out of the chamber rising and falling and being measured.

When the water was particularly high, all the surrounding land would be ruined and the government could take action. Also if the water was low and drought ensued, the government could again, lower taxes to prevent unrest.

There's a scale:-

http://www.waterhistory.org/

which fiscal decisions for the year could be based.

Explore the shaft

Nilometer Shaft

After this, the caretaker allows us to venture into the musty shaft and explore the damp holes. The shaft has been empty since the building of the Aswan dam.

We all come out smiling :)

Outside the Nilometer

This trip cost 10 EP or £1.

Cairo - Chapel of St. George

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When I arrived in the Old Town area, pretty much everything was closed.

Church of Saint George

After taking a metro into town, which was nearly as hectic as the roads, picking up a map and returning, this was the first place I visited.

The Chapel of St. George is devoted almost entirely to St. George as it's patron in keeping with Coptic tradition with which seems to have fairly strong ties.

They allow photo's inside, unusually for an Orthodox church, but there is a caretaker making sure things don't get out of hand.

Church of Saint George

Crypt of St. George

Downstairs is a crypt dedicated entirely to St. George and his dragon slaying abilities, some coloured frescos and stone carvings, stain-glass windows or alter-fronts. Pretty much a shrine to St. George. You are invited to drop a few pennies and help the upkeep of the various George's and Dragons around the place.

Church of Saint George

Wonder Working Chains

In additional to the normal paraphernalia, the church is kitted out with a 4.2m magical chain. Administered by nuns, it is said that when this chain is attached, it can be a magical cure if venerated and kissed by the patron, with great blessing from George himself.

Particularly mad people and Turks are said to benefit from this most.

Visiting is only on a Friday if you are interested in this particular ceremony.

The church dates back to the 14th Century and has passed between the Roman and Coptic monks.

Cairo - Holy Family Crypt

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The fleeing path of the holy family passed through this spot.

The Holy Family

There are a number of tours explaining the ins and outs of what they got up to.

Basically, when Jesus was born, Herod took it upon himself that the boy had no peace, and pursued the family from Jerusalem, through Jordan into Egypt, where they spent a number of years going from pillar to post.

For those taking it upon themselves, there are tours specially to follow the path of this holy family through Africa and trace the steps of Jesus development and stories.

All interesting stuff.

But, again, since I have no tour I have no information.

Fantastic Shop

There is however, a shop stocking classic furniture and overpriced nic-nacs, similar to the one I came across in X'ian province visiting the terracotta army.
Located in the Crypt of the Holy Family this place was stocked with items you couldn't find anywhere else, you'd have to pay for items to get shipped over in a crate, but the variety and quality means that everyone passing pays a visit in the hope that they might one day buy something and send it back home.

I have seen a number of these places, some in South America selling one off, expensive, quality items of cultural significance unavailable elsewhere.

Maybe one day I'll do a Google map with exact locations and share them out.

Until then, here's just the one.

Standing next to Mummy

The Pyramids @ Giza

After a morning at the pyramids under my own steam found the experience a bit boring. What you'll find are four lumps of rock separated by a few hundred yards of desert and the Sphinx and the bottom.
This did little to satisfy my curiosity as to how the pyramids came about.

Come lunch time, I returned to Mena House and hired a tour guide from reception. This would take me through how they came into existence and in turn I can pass some of this on to you.

The site of the Pyramids

There are 2 sites at Giza, the main one and Saqqara.

Saqqara Located slightly outside of town. Took a taxi down.

This style of step Pyramid came into existence around 2,600 BC and is based on a mastaba, (mausoleum), construction in a progressive step, each step of diminishing size. This gave early builders the chance to move progressively to the pyramids we know today.

Saqqara - First Democracy

Early courtiers were called to watch the first elections in which the King had to prove he was fit to govern, first by running to and fro across the courtyard 30 times, then requesting the gods that they permit his continued reign. If he failed either of these tests he would not be fit to reign.
Since the gods rarely objected, maintaining power was just a question of proving you were of sound body once in a while.

The temple here was designed by the ancient architect, Imhotep. In terms of artistic development, the styles of the temple imitate those present in nature, which would be familiar, for example; palm branches for ceiling, papyrus for columns. This gives the architecture of feeling of opulence through attaching and bettering natures building materials.

Great Pyramid - Giza

There are 3 main Pyramids at Giza belonging to the 4th Dynasty.

They come in three sizes:

Cheops - 187m

Khafre - 183m

Menkaure - 68m

The pyramids were the worlds tallest structure until the Lincoln Cathedral was built in 1300.

Exploration

Howard Carter was sent to explore the pyramids in 1907, at which point most of them had already been looted.

Legends

The Sphinx stands at the entrance to the great pyramids and represents a guardian for the the dead kings. It is said that the Thutmosis IV of the 18th Dynasty had a dream of the sphinx telling him to uncover the part-buried structure, and he would be king.

As legend has it, he undertook to remove the desert sand from the structure, and some years later, was crowned King.

Demise

The Pyramids are the oldest stone structures in the world. 

After the 4th dynasty, pyramid building became less.

Photo's

Great Pyramid - Giza

Sphinx - Giza

Pyramid Complex - Giza

Saqqara

Pyramids - Egypt

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Giza to be exact.

Had a two hour drive from Alexandria along a refreshingly safe, (by Egyptian standards), toll road. People weren't overtaking and undertaking at the same time while beeping their horns like the organised chaos of Alexandria.

Of course, all that came to an end as soon as we reached Cairo and the incessant lane changing and horn sounding began, again. Bonza.

Mena house Oberoi

Found this hotel. It's right outside the Pyramids and it looks like I can walk from the car.

Here's a view from my window.

Mena House Hotel

The Mena House Oberoi costs 155 euro per night. Reasonable but without breakfast. I've got laundry to do tomorrow, and the concierge tells me there isn't one in this area, plus Giza is 2 or 3 miles out of Cairo proper so I may be seeking accommodation nearer the centre tomorrow.

Historical Hotel

I've just been watching the welcome video, something I seem to be doing more and more nowadays, and it seems the Mena House has a rich and refined history:

This is a shortened list of awards.

1. Best Hotels for Service in Africa, Middle East and the Indian Ocean (Ranked 3rd) - Condé Nast Traveler, USA, Gold List 2006
2. Best Hotels in Middle East and Africa (Ranked 5th)-Condé Nast Traveler, Gold List 2004
3. Best Hotels for Location (Ranked 13th)-Condé Nast Traveller, Gold List 2005
4. 500 Best Hotels in the World -Travel + Leisure 2003
5. Most Exclusive Hotels in the World -The Most Exclusive Hotels in the World Guide Book 2003
6. Best Landscaped Garden in Egypt -Ministry of Environment, Egypt 2002

As well as this Mena House has hosted peace talks, regality, becoming a field hospital during the great wars, building a golf course which is quite funny and very English, if you think about playing 18 holes to a backdrop of the Pyramids.

This is all reflected in with pictures of Churchill, Roosevelt, King Farouk dotted around the place.

Lost on me

My bed was turned down, and they'd left some oranges out for me, and some cookies. Ahhhh.

The catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

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Located in the north-west of the city. The burial chamber of an ancient trading family buried in the Egyptian tradition, with all their slaves, servants animals and worldly goods. The catacombs where discovered when a travellers donkey fell, revealing an entrance to the series of rock hewn caves and chambers.

The main chamber features an elaborate series of carvings surrounding 3 graves, surrounding these 3 are many hundreds of other burial chambers, some dedicated to animals, some to humans.

There is a film crew filming while I go down there. I take a couple with my portable.

Catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

Catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

The Great Library

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Originally named the Mouseion founded by Ptolemy I Soter based on a model by Aristotle the great philosopher of Greece.

The original library was destroyed in 47 BC, this current version was built in 2003.

Egyptian Intelligence

There is a state visit going on and the place is surrounded with security.

Walls

The walls depict writings of every known language.

Inside the Library

Inside the structure is made up of cascading levels each providing a mezzanine on the one below.
It is vast and impressive.

There are a number of exhibitions throughout the library and a steady stream of tours ploughing through, as well as students and photographers.

New Book

Publications - There are a number of official publications from Organisations such as WIPO, the WTO the World Bank, UNICEF, UNESCO and others. Some of them are up to date [pictured].

 

The Great Library at Alexandria provides a striking contrast with the malaise of the Alexandria. Once inside, you can't help thinking you might be in a different country, London or Europe.

In terms of libraries, this stands out as one of memory due to it's sheer size.

Alexandria Attractions

Having only a limited time frame, 2 days, I've chosen only 2 attractions to visit which are

1- The Catacombs

2- The Great Library

Other attractions included:

The fort of Qait bay*
Saad Zaghloul Statue*
Greaco-Roman Museum** [closed]
Pompey's Pillar*
Stanley Bridge*
Royal Jewelery Museum** [closed]
Montazah Palace*

Travel

Travel round the city is difficult. Traffic conditions are hectic. I witness 2 crashes, one near fatality as a mad person wanders speeding traffic. We miss her by about 40cm.

Also signposting is non-existent. If you want to find anywhere, you'll need GPS.

Montazah Palace, Alexandria

Caught up

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First rule of working while on the road, always stay at the best hotel you can afford. 2- Never fall behind with your blogging. It's not big and it's not clever. So I've caught up.

Here's my final blog of the day from the Four Seasons, Alexandria.

I've never stayed in a Four Seasons before, although, I have memories of the one in Sultanhamet and the staff coming out to take photo's for us when we were all backpackers with no money. This was at the start of my travelling phase in 2001.

I tried to stay in one once in Sydney so this is the first time I've tried and succeeded.

Here's a video taken from the entrance to the breakfast area, restaurant section.

Note cheeping birds piped music in the background. Authentic rainforest from what I can make out.

Verdict

The ambience is one of complete luxury and relaxation. The service is second to none. The prices are astronomical.

Port Said

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Or port Sa  id as it is pronounced.

Sports the Mediterranean entrance to the world most lucrative stretch of water. The Suez canal.

Port Said is supported by a mixture of naval tradition and cruise ships which stop off.

Part of my journey is made along the canal which offered better views of the massive ships than I was expecting in Port Said.

Suez Canal

Hotels

After some time travelling round sunesta and hotmellia couldn't be bothered looking any further, and went for an Egyptian job costing $30. No Internet connection, hence no blogs for a couple of days.

Tourism

There isn't much by way of tourism, but what is to be seen is easily taken in with one of the guides horse and carriage tours which last about 1 hr.

This took me to the bazar, past the military museum, which was closed, past the chapel of st. Eustice and a couple of mosques.

Here are a couple of shots of town to give you the idea.

Lighthouse, Port Sa-id

War Memorial, Port Sa-id

Caddilac, Port Sa-id

I would say Port Said would be worth visiting as a stop-off point.

If you want to see the ships, stick to the desert south of Said.