The catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

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Located in the north-west of the city. The burial chamber of an ancient trading family buried in the Egyptian tradition, with all their slaves, servants animals and worldly goods. The catacombs where discovered when a travellers donkey fell, revealing an entrance to the series of rock hewn caves and chambers.

The main chamber features an elaborate series of carvings surrounding 3 graves, surrounding these 3 are many hundreds of other burial chambers, some dedicated to animals, some to humans.

There is a film crew filming while I go down there. I take a couple with my portable.

catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa
Catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa
Catacombes of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa

The Great Library

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Originally named the Mouseion founded by Ptolemy I Soter based on a model by Aristotle the great philosopher of Greece.

The original library was destroyed in 47 BC, this current version was built in 2003.

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Egyptian Intelligence

There is a state visit going on and the place is surrounded with security.

Great Library
Walls

The walls depict writings of every known language.

Great Library
Inside the Library

Inside the structure is made up of cascading levels each providing a mezzanine on the one below.
It is vast and impressive.

There are a number of exhibitions throughout the library and a steady stream of tours ploughing through, as well as students and photographers.

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New Book

Publications – There are a number of official publications from Organisations such as WIPO, the WTO the World Bank, UNICEF, UNESCO and others. Some of them are up to date [pictured].

 

The Great Library at Alexandria provides a striking contrast with the malaise of the Alexandria. Once inside, you can’t help thinking you might be in a different country, London or Europe.

In terms of libraries, this stands out as one of memory due to it’s sheer size.

Alexandria Attractions

Having only a limited time frame, 2 days, I’ve chosen only 2 attractions to visit which are

1- The Catacombs

2- The Great Library

Other attractions included:

The fort of Qait bay*
Saad Zaghloul Statue*
Greaco-Roman Museum** [closed]
Pompey’s Pillar*
Stanley Bridge*
Royal Jewelery Museum** [closed]
Montazah Palace*

Travel

Travel round the city is difficult. Traffic conditions are hectic. I witness 2 crashes, one near fatality as a mad person wanders speeding traffic. We miss her by about 40cm.

Also signposting is non-existent. If you want to find anywhere, you’ll need GPS.

Montazah Palace
Montazah Palace, Alexandria

The Church of St. Anthony

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Was fed by Ravens for over 10 years, a solitary raven brought St. Anthony, who lived to 105, half a loaf of bread each day until he died.

Background

St. Anthony roamed the desert for many years until he came across this the site of the first monastic tradition, started firstly by Anthony the followed by Paul and supported by Ravens.

Monasteries originated from the cave dwelling monks converging on the desert springs.

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St. Anthony’s Monastery

Later walls were built around them and the cave dwellers came out from their caves to form small communities this was brought about mostly from the need from survival mostly from the elements but sometimes attacking Bedouins drove the monks together, where otherwise they would have had solitary lives.

These monasteries are the first in the world.

They are St. Paul’s and St. Anthony’s.

Visiting times

Visiting times are from 4am till 4pm.

There are 131 monks living at the monastery at present, much of the building dates back to the 13th century and some has been restored with the help of USAid project. Notably the Byzantine fresco’s in the chapel of the St. Anthony restored by Italian artists. Some of the fresco’s date back as far as 6th century.

From here you can visit the gardens, the gates and also the spring which supported so many monks.

spring of st. anthony
Spring of St. Anthony

The spring supports 400l of water each day. St. Anthony used to live in a cave 200m above this spring until St. Paul arrived, at which point many more monks came to the area. The spring was able to support them also.

You are able to drink the spring water which is kind of metallic with a hint of phosphorus.

Shop

At the end of the trip you are invited to buy from the shop. As I enter music is turned on to add to the buying ambience. I buy some honey, a bottle of monastic wine and a postcard of a particularly ugly nurse shark.

There are many different gifts and languages.

Mount Sinai

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Background

Also known as Mount Horeb. It was here Moses witnessed the burning bush whilst tending Joseph’s flocks. ‘The bush burned but was not consumed’ is the common theme. There are different versions.

Sinai derives from the Semitic, Sin or ‘Sun God’ OR sin-ah, meaning hatred referring to the Jealousy people felt against the Jews. I’ve been to many places where the sun rises, and this isn’t the greatest amongst them.

Definitely a place for reflection.

Moses received the ten commandments here.

Ascent

Mount Sinai is a journey reachable from St. Katherine (town). Where there are a few hotels.

They say that Mount Sinai is best viewed at dawn, when one can wonder at the true spectacle of this desert mountain landscape and the beauty of it all etc. etc.
The truth is, if you attempted in the day, you would suffer heat-stroke, exhaustion or both.

This is a 2 hour, 3 mile jaunt ascent of roughly 1500ft along dusty track followed by steps which last for 700 steps.

Expect to be fit or fast if you want to get there at dawn.

Here are the rewards.

mount sinai @ dawn
mount Sinai at dawn

sinia highest point
chapel at mount Sinai

Descent
Took the descent down the 7,000 step route.

This is the original, steep route, and the one we hear so much about. You will know you are on the right track as you pass through 2 arches.

It descends from the mountain taking in 7,000 rock hewn steps, although I didn’t count them so I can’t be sure where this statistic was coming from.

One thing I can be sure of was there were no Camel trip or attractions to plunder your money on.

I enjoyed the silence and was able to reflect on how Moses must have been thinking in order to wonder up to such a wild and desolate place and what inspired people to hate the Jews so much..

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rocky descent, 7000 steps

The chances of death are high. You’re on your own, in every sense. Perhaps more than anywhere else I’ve ever been. But the silence is great. Shame there are so many tourists around :)