Cairo – National Museum

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Again, surprise surprise, you’re going to need a guide to gain anything from this museum. One approached me outside and offers to take me round for £15 for 1 and 1/2 hours, £10 per hour.

The thought does cross my mind, so I offer to hang around for more visitors to bring the price lower, at which point he tells me the price will not lower he’ll charge us all the same which could equate to £70-80 per hour.
Another example of money-grabbing by the Egyptians, and this guy actually worked for the museum so goes some way to indicating the attitude toward tourism.

Inside the Museum

Once inside the museum is a large circular atrium surrounded by a large rectangle filled with statues and relics.

Photo’s are not allowed.

Heavy statues are on the ground floor artifacts and jewellery are on the second floor.

Left wondering

I spend long enough wondering round to realise you’re really going to gain nothing without a guide, most of the pieces are labelled without dates, dynasties, locations or any over-riding narrative, story-board or reason d’etre.

This is a shame.
As a visitor, I feel that I really gained nothing from the experience. Apart from feeling that the Egyptians were by far the most advanced civilisation and way ahead of their time, which I felt when I walked in, this museum has been tiring and slightly pointless.

This was opposed to the Coptic Museum which was interesting and informative with over-riding structure and narrative. The aim of this museum seems to be to grab money rather than to educate.

Here’s a couple of pictures of what makes the museum famous.


Face Mask of King TUT


Gold Sarcophagus.

If you feel you should visit, you’re going to need a guide (again).

It’s worth the entrance fee but not the time. You could spend hours and learn nothing.

Cairo – Hanging Church

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Called the hanging Church because it was once positioned over the gatehouse to the Coptic quarters.

Oldest Church

The Coptic hanging church is the oldest church I have visited, dating back to the 7th century. Some parts of the church have been carbon dated, the most recent revealing first construction around 2nd century BC.
It’s clear this church has been around in some form for a very long time.

The courtyard and church have a distinctly Arabic feel with intricate wooden carvings, aprons and balconies.

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Hanging Church – Courtyard

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Hanging Church – Entrance

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Hanging Church – The Inside

Unlike the Church of St. George, this one is entirely Coptic.

Inside the Church

Inside you can find 110 icons dedicated to the Christian faith most of them dating back to the 18th Century some going back as far as the 8th century, it is said this church is one of the earliest examples of Basilica style architecture.

There are continuous tour groups moving through, although this does little to spoil the over-all atmosphere which is made in the upwards direction;

  • Admire the wooden timber beams which have made up the construct for many centuries.
  • The use of the Basilica Style to bring light into the structure.
  • The ornately structured chandeliers.

all make for a warmth of style in keeping with Arabic, European and Christian decorations and considerations.

A pleasure to be in and around.

Weblinks: The Hanging Church website – Find out more about the hanging church, history and visiting times.

Cairo – Nilometer

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Now you may think this is a corny name, “Nilometer, sounds like mileometer”. But you must remember, the first Nilometer was in existence in Pharoaic times, possibly before Christ not the other way round.
Duhhh.

The Nilometer in it’s current incarnation has been measuring the height of the Nile since 751 and the Arabian conquest, at which point they build a special dome and masonry housing and began measuring regularly the height of the Nile each season.

This records have been kept for 14 centuries and have spawned developments in other areas on science, notably Brownian motion for those physicists out there.

Walk on by

I arrived at the Nilometer after a hefty jaunt from the Raddison, I was greeted by the caretaker who invited me and another English family in to take pictures at which point he told us the various facts.

Facts

The Nilometer stands 10.4 meters tall and consists of a cubit, or forearms length x16 measurement units. During the year the water would flow in and out of the chamber rising and falling and being measured.

When the water was particularly high, all the surrounding land would be ruined and the government could take action. Also if the water was low and drought ensued, the government could again, lower taxes to prevent unrest.

There’s a scale:-

http://www.waterhistory.org/

which fiscal decisions for the year could be based.

Explore the shaft

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Nilometer Shaft

After this, the caretaker allows us to venture into the musty shaft and explore the damp holes. The shaft has been empty since the building of the Aswan dam.

We all come out smiling :)

Outside the Nilometer

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This trip cost 10 EP or £1.

Cairo – Chapel of St. George

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When I arrived in the Old Town area, pretty much everything was closed.

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Church of Saint George

After taking a metro into town, which was nearly as hectic as the roads, picking up a map and returning, this was the first place I visited.

The Chapel of St. George is devoted almost entirely to St. George as it’s patron in keeping with Coptic tradition with which seems to have fairly strong ties.

They allow photo’s inside, unusually for an Orthodox church, but there is a caretaker making sure things don’t get out of hand.

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Church of Saint George

Crypt of St. George

Downstairs is a crypt dedicated entirely to St. George and his dragon slaying abilities, some coloured frescos and stone carvings, stain-glass windows or alter-fronts. Pretty much a shrine to St. George. You are invited to drop a few pennies and help the upkeep of the various George’s and Dragons around the place.

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Church of Saint George

Wonder Working Chains

In additional to the normal paraphernalia, the church is kitted out with a 4.2m magical chain. Administered by nuns, it is said that when this chain is attached, it can be a magical cure if venerated and kissed by the patron, with great blessing from George himself.

Particularly mad people and Turks are said to benefit from this most.

Visiting is only on a Friday if you are interested in this particular ceremony.

The church dates back to the 14th Century and has passed between the Roman and Coptic monks.

Cairo – Holy Family Crypt

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The fleeing path of the holy family passed through this spot.

The Holy Family

There are a number of tours explaining the ins and outs of what they got up to.

Basically, when Jesus was born, Herod took it upon himself that the boy had no peace, and pursued the family from Jerusalem, through Jordan into Egypt, where they spent a number of years going from pillar to post.

For those taking it upon themselves, there are tours specially to follow the path of this holy family through Africa and trace the steps of Jesus development and stories.

All interesting stuff.

But, again, since I have no tour I have no information.

Fantastic Shop

There is however, a shop stocking classic furniture and overpriced nic-nacs, similar to the one I came across in X’ian province visiting the terracotta army.
Located in the Crypt of the Holy Family this place was stocked with items you couldn’t find anywhere else, you’d have to pay for items to get shipped over in a crate, but the variety and quality means that everyone passing pays a visit in the hope that they might one day buy something and send it back home.

I have seen a number of these places, some in South America selling one off, expensive, quality items of cultural significance unavailable elsewhere.

Maybe one day I’ll do a Google map with exact locations and share them out.

Until then, here’s just the one.

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Standing next to Mummy