The Church of St. Anthony

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Was fed by Ravens for over 10 years, a solitary raven brought St. Anthony, who lived to 105, half a loaf of bread each day until he died.

Background

St. Anthony roamed the desert for many years until he came across this the site of the first monastic tradition, started firstly by Anthony the followed by Paul and supported by Ravens.

Monasteries originated from the cave dwelling monks converging on the desert springs.

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St. Anthony’s Monastery

Later walls were built around them and the cave dwellers came out from their caves to form small communities this was brought about mostly from the need from survival mostly from the elements but sometimes attacking Bedouins drove the monks together, where otherwise they would have had solitary lives.

These monasteries are the first in the world.

They are St. Paul’s and St. Anthony’s.

Visiting times

Visiting times are from 4am till 4pm.

There are 131 monks living at the monastery at present, much of the building dates back to the 13th century and some has been restored with the help of USAid project. Notably the Byzantine fresco’s in the chapel of the St. Anthony restored by Italian artists. Some of the fresco’s date back as far as 6th century.

From here you can visit the gardens, the gates and also the spring which supported so many monks.

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Spring of St. Anthony

The spring supports 400l of water each day. St. Anthony used to live in a cave 200m above this spring until St. Paul arrived, at which point many more monks came to the area. The spring was able to support them also.

You are able to drink the spring water which is kind of metallic with a hint of phosphorus.

Shop

At the end of the trip you are invited to buy from the shop. As I enter music is turned on to add to the buying ambience. I buy some honey, a bottle of monastic wine and a postcard of a particularly ugly nurse shark.

There are many different gifts and languages.

Mount Sinai

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Background

Also known as Mount Horeb. It was here Moses witnessed the burning bush whilst tending Joseph’s flocks. ‘The bush burned but was not consumed’ is the common theme. There are different versions.

Sinai derives from the Semitic, Sin or ‘Sun God’ OR sin-ah, meaning hatred referring to the Jealousy people felt against the Jews. I’ve been to many places where the sun rises, and this isn’t the greatest amongst them.

Definitely a place for reflection.

Moses received the ten commandments here.

Ascent

Mount Sinai is a journey reachable from St. Katherine (town). Where there are a few hotels.

They say that Mount Sinai is best viewed at dawn, when one can wonder at the true spectacle of this desert mountain landscape and the beauty of it all etc. etc.
The truth is, if you attempted in the day, you would suffer heat-stroke, exhaustion or both.

This is a 2 hour, 3 mile jaunt ascent of roughly 1500ft along dusty track followed by steps which last for 700 steps.

Expect to be fit or fast if you want to get there at dawn.

Here are the rewards.

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mount Sinai at dawn

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chapel at mount Sinai

Descent
Took the descent down the 7,000 step route.

This is the original, steep route, and the one we hear so much about. You will know you are on the right track as you pass through 2 arches.

It descends from the mountain taking in 7,000 rock hewn steps, although I didn’t count them so I can’t be sure where this statistic was coming from.

One thing I can be sure of was there were no Camel trip or attractions to plunder your money on.

I enjoyed the silence and was able to reflect on how Moses must have been thinking in order to wonder up to such a wild and desolate place and what inspired people to hate the Jews so much..

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rocky descent, 7000 steps

The chances of death are high. You’re on your own, in every sense. Perhaps more than anywhere else I’ve ever been. But the silence is great. Shame there are so many tourists around :)

Stop off in Dahab

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On my way to Mount St. Katherine, Egypt, and possibly the world’s, oldest monastery.

Dahab I was expecting like Sharm, or an old town. Turned out to be an old town.

Here I stopped for some lunch, a haircut and to buy some CD’s for the journey.

Dahab was a pleasant town, less low-key than Sharm. The beach is pebble, so I doubt that it would have attracted the same level of interest as Sharm which has lengthily sandy beaches set against resort after resort.

Dahab is not like that.

I could find more in Dahab and faster, so it made a good stop over point and I got all the things done I wanted to do, here’s some shots of Dahab.

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Cheeky cat eats Aroz

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Stuffed fox smokes pipe

The restaurant I stopped in was called Mummy Funny, I had a Hallal Kebab, which, I guess is an Egyptian meal.
It was beef in spicy sauces with peppers (capsicum), potatoes fried in cumin, served with rice and salad.

Took me 5 minutes to eat it and it went down a treat.

My new car

Have got this Subaru 4wd. From what I can make out it’s a 1.8 injection with AWD advanced wheel drive although I tested it in the dunes this afternoon It didn’t seem to be going anywhere fast.

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Subaru Land Cruiser

Most of the Bedouins drive open-top jeeps like the old US issue short wheel-base jobs.

This Subaru should do fine judging by the level of potholes on the road.

Egyptian road rules
Pick any side of the road.
You needn’t stick to it, if you want to change sides later on, that’s fine too.

When I first got in the car, I noticed a 4000l oil truck careering down the wrong side of a dual carriageway tooting his airhorn.

Discovery
Discovered today that the boot doesn’t lock and the oil light remains permanently on.

I’ll be taking it back tomorrow.