Bonnie Journey – Cosgrove to Fenny Compton (44 Miles)

Waiting for the locks - Long Buckby

Taking overnight stays in Gayton, Norton Junction and Napton along the way!

Moored at Grand Union Iron Trunk Aqueduct
Moored at Grand Union Iron Trunk Aqueduct about 100 yards from the aqueduct itself.

Back out in the sticks

Spring is here. At least in theory.

Whilst my stay around Milton Keynes, in the winter, was fine. It’s really not somewhere I’d continue to add my patronage to.

The idea of the boat, as I see it, is to provide the luxury of modern living detached from civilization, which it does quite well.

Milton Keynes is one of the biggest social housing projects in Europe. Although they throw trees, parks, shops and other attractions in, there’s no getting away from that fact.

I’m glad to be out of it and back out in the sticks.

Cosgrove's Ironstone Bridge
Passing under Cosgrove’s Ironstone Bridge in spring

Day 1: Cosgrove to Gayton in the Fields

A bad day weather wise. Wind and hail. Not ideal.

Just one set of 7 locks to get through at Stoke Bruerne, and the tiny ‘stop-lock’ at Cosgrove.

A view across toward the River Tove - Cosgrove
A view across toward the River Tove – Cosgrove

As I came out of Cosgrove, the weather was a little sunny. This soon changed as I got underway, and by the time I’d got my fuel and was ready to get underway proper, the bad weather really set in.

Baxter Boatyard - Yardley Gobion
Filling up with diesel from Baxter Boatyard close to the village of Yardley Gobion

Travelling between Yardley Gobion and Stoke locks, I had hail blowing directly into my face as I went along. It was so bad, I had to put my hand up in front of my face to stop myself being blinded! If I’d have put glasses on, they would have blown off into the cut! Not nice.

Looking on the brightside, at least the wind was in a North/South direction and didn’t really affect the handling of the boat.

Abandoned boat outside Yardley Gobion
Abandoned boat outside Yardley Gobion

By the time I’d passed out the top lock at Stoke, the weather had calmed down again. At least the hail had. Still windy and cold, but less so.

Stoke Bruerne - Bottom Lock
Stoke Bruerne – Bottom Lock in the hail….

Passing through the Blisworth Tunnel

At nearly 3km long, it’s the longest freely navigable tunnel in Europe, (according to the CRT website).

Going through it, there’s probably 10 or more waterspouts that come out of the brickwork at you as you go along.

Some from above, to dump water on you, some from the sides to squirt it in your face! Luckily, there were no other boats and I necessitate moves to avoid these spouts and keep myself from getting drenched!

If you’ve not been down Blisworth before, this dumping of freezing cold water from above will come as a surprise to you, as it did to me the first time. Nothing like a few buckets of water being throw in your face as you traverse a pitch black, freezing tunnel.

Still, it’s survivable. Character building…

Entering into Blisworth Tunnel
Entering into Blisworth Tunnel from the South at Stoke Bruerne

Mooring in Blisworth and Gayton Junction

Is non-existent. When I say non-existent, I mean not even 1 spot in these two locations where I used to moor.

Even further up, there were boats taking up the majority of viable spots.

Whilst I was here, Blisworth or Gayton Junction, it used to be me and maybe 2/3 other people.

Now it’s nothing but boats. I’d say 10x more than 5 years ago.

I planned to stop at Gayton, but that wasn’t possible.

I had to continue to Gayton in the Fields which is meant that it was dark when I eventually pulled up.

Mooring up near Gayton on the Grand Union
Mooring up near Gayton on the Grand Union. I used to call it ‘Gayton in the Fields’.

Nice quite spot. Horses in the field. Very quite. Very pretty and secluded.

Lit the fire. Cooked my dinner. Jumped in bed. Fell asleep straight away.

Defaced chimney
My chimney stack got caught underneath the rope as the boat was moving forward coming through the locks at Stoke Bruerne

Day 1 casualty. My chimney. A moments silence please..

Day 2: Gayton in the Fields to Norton Junction

Again, 1 flight of locks. Buckby flight.

The weather had calmed down a lot. More sun and less wind.

Mooring morning

Today is going to be a fairly easy journey.

Usually, I wouldn’t take on more than 1 flight of locks in the winter. In the summer, because of the time factor, it’s not so much of a thing. At the time of filming this, we’re still on DST and there’s simply not enough hours in the day to do 2 flights.

Locks are physically demanding. These are the double variety, which means more water, heavier locks and more opportunity for things to go wrong.

Binty Bridge

As I set out from my home for the night in Gayton Fields, there’s this bridge. It’s been decorated by local artist, Binty.

Binty Bumble Bees under canal tunnel - Northamptonshire
Binty Bumble Bees under canal tunnel – Northamptonshire

She’s from Barby, close to Rugby. She used to draw colourful chickens on bins, walls and bridges, in this case. They’re kind of cute, Northants live calls her Northampton’s Answer to Banksy.

I used to see her stuff all over the place when I worked in Northants.

These bees keep me company as I pass through the tunnel…

This picture I took as the canal passes under the railway coming up Buckby Flight.

Waiting for the locks - Long Buckby
Waiting for the locks – Long Buckby

There’s lots of boat traffic here. I pass through the top 4 locks in tandem with other boaters.

On the Stoke flight, I didn’t see one boat.

I get the impression that either you’re above Stoke or below. The traffic leading up to Stoke to the south was non-existent. Those Milton Keynes people don’t make it up this way, at least not in the winter.

Sunset over Norton Junction
Sunset over Norton Junction

The day ends and I am where I planned to be. Norton Junction. There’s plenty of space here.

During the summer, the sun setting over the valley is something to behold. Many was the night I’d sit out here, listening to my tunes sipping wine as the sun went down…

A much earlier finish. 4pm and it’s time to settle back, pour a beer and cook some dinner! I’m having thai green curry that I prepared on day 1. It’s got extra chilli’s for a little more bite. Very refreshing!

Today has been fairly uneventful, at least no bad events. Got to talk to a few boaters along the way, which sped me through the locks as a side effect.

Day 3: Norton Junction to Napton

1 Flight of locks and 1 tunnel.

Braunston tunnel is slightly shorter than Blisworth at roughly 2km in length.

Unlike Blisworth, it doesn’t have the downpours as you run through. It’s a straight run.

As I set up at around 8am, I’m the first to pass through with no traffic in the opposite direction.

Exiting Braunston tunnel
Exiting Braunston tunnel

Coming through seems a snip.

I did this short video on Facebook

The weather has turned a little bit, and it’s raining slightly when I come out.

Almost immediately, as you come out of the tunnel, you meet the top flight of Braunston locks, of which there are 7.

This time, unlike before, I am locking down. This is simpler than locking up. As you’re moving downhill, like on a bike. Dead easy.

Again, there are a few boats coming the other direction, setting the locks for me and speeding me along.

The bottom three locks have lockies. These are volunteers who come out in all weathers and work the locks for you! Usually means you can stay on the boat, which if the weather is bad is a bonus.

I come down and pass through Braunston, where odd boaters start shouting at me to SLOW DOWN. One of them even swearing at me.

Braunston is a funny place.

Been on the boat for 9 years.

I don’t take this negative attention seriously.

Apart from weirdos shouting obscenities at me, I pass through Braunston and out towards Flecknoe on the Oxford arm. Still on the Grand Union. Still widebeam canal. Still deep. Still wide.

When I end the day, I’m close to this spot.

The Folly Pub - Napton
Bottom lock, Napton flight. Traditional pub, The Folly. Always worth dropping in for a quick drink.

It’s the Folly pub. I haven’t pulled right up, as the mobile connection is 0 bars! Great incentive to get in there and start drinking when you’ve got no internets.

I’ve resisted that. I’m about 1 mile walk. At 4pm, I tie up.

Later, I go to The Folly for a drink. It’s a five star pub for drinkers.

The other one, The Kings Head, used to be good for food. Less so now, I’m told, although the reviews read well.

Both are in Napton. It’s got a windmill on a hill in the centre of the village which you can see for miles around. Also has an artisan coffee shop, which serves bread, wine and other practicalities to needy boaters from the multiple hire companies located in the area.

Day 4: Napton to Fenny Compton

Wake up and look to get moving. Notice that one of my mooring chains, one I store fore, one aft, (close to the action), is missing. Someone has taken it. Not usual behaviour for boaters, usually they won’t touch anything which is actually ON your boat.

It’s kind of an unspoken rule.

8am I get going.

The canal steps down from wide to narrow and passes the last winding point before the locks. There are boats moored up all the way to the pub.

Bottom Lock - Napton Flight
Welcome to the Oxford canal @ Bottom Lock – Napton Flight

Today, it’s just one flight of locks, the Napton Flight.

9 locks. Locking up, uphill.

I meet one boat on the way down. Otherwise, like Stoke locks, it’s just me.

Unlike Stoke, these are single gauge, quick to fill up and nice and easy to handle. No busted chimney here!

Waiting for the locks - Bottom Lock - Napton
Waiting for the locks – Bottom Lock – Napton

Another 2 locks at Marston Doles…

There’s a guy who keeps antique vehicles at the top. He used to have a load of old buses when I first went past, many years ago. He’s cleared his yard up a lot. Now it’s just got posh cars. Must have made his money and moved on to cars. You can see the edge of a Hillman Imp if you zoom in on the photo.

Old Ivy House exiting the locks - Marston Doles
Old Ivy House exiting the locks – Marston Doles

Through these and you’re on to what they call ‘the top’. It’s the highest point of the Oxford canal.

Water levels seem low. Going is much, slower. The water is shallow and silty.

This is HS2 country. Just fields. Sheep. Trees.

Not a lot else, (not mentioning HS2).

Narrowboat in the field - Oxford Canal
Dug through the bank, into the field, then sealed back up.
Canal and River Trust took legal action, and failed.
The boat and it’s owner can be seen near Marston Doles on the Oxford Canal.

This boat has a lot of viral coverage on the Facebook boating groups. Obviously, there’s a story behind it and it’s lodged somewhere behind my short term memory!

Enough to say, the CRT are aware…

I make it through to Fenny after stopping for lunch and moor up behind the visitor moorings. There’s plenty of space.

Mooring at Fenny Compton
Mooring at Fenny Compton on the Oxford canal. On the borderlands between Warwickshire and Oxfordshire.

It’s 3pm on Saturday.

I’m back on the Oxford now.

Back in the sticks.

Until next time.

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Author: Michael Tyler

Owner and main contributor to the michaeltyler.co.uk, a site about my travels and day to day life on the canal.

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